Best of India's Far North: Ladakh & Kashmir - 15 Days

Highlights

• Visit Tibetan-inspired monasteries in traditional mountain villages
• Brave the whitewater rapids on the Indus River in northern India
• Embark on epic road trips through the Himalaya and into the Kashmir Valley
• Sleep in a houseboat in Srinagar and explore famous river valleys

Brief Itinerary

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Leh, Walking Tour

Welcome to India! One of the largest nations on earth (in terms of land mass and population), it comprises 28 states and eight union territories. This makes it more than a little challenging to see the entire country in one go. That's why it's best to do India one region at a time. To this end, you'll explore the spectacular northern highlands over 15 action-packed days.

After a connecting flight (likely in New Delhi), you'll arrive in the territory of Ladakh and the city of Leh. Located in the Indus River Valley, spread over the states of Jammu and Kashmir, Leh is surrounded by the towering peaks of the Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges. It has a long and storied history, as Leh was once a significant trading post at the junction of the historic silk route that ran from China and Central Asia to the plains of India. Because it sits at an altitude of 11,500 feet (3,500 m), it's best to take it easy this first day and acclimatize.

That's why, after checking into your hotel, you'll meet a local guide for a brisk but easy two-hour walk around. It's a great excuse to visit the city's highlights, like Leh Palace. This nine-story, Tibetan-influenced palace dates to the 17th century and offers panoramic views of Leh and the surrounding mountains. After the tour, you can spend the rest of the day relaxing at your hotel.

Day 2: Leh Monasteries Tour: Shey, Thiksey & Hemis

Rise and shine! This morning, you'll meet a guide for a tour of the monasteries near Leh. Start by driving up the Indus Valley to Shey Palace, a Buddhist gompa (spiritual compound). Located on a hill 9 miles (15 km) upstream, Shey was once the seat of kings. A 24-foot (7.5 m) gold-plated copper statue of the Buddha sits here.

Continue driving to Thiksey Gompa, one of Ladakh's largest and most architecturally impressive gompas. Within its walls are several beautiful temples, stupas, and Buddhist wall paintings. Thiksey has been nicknamed the "mini Potala Palace" because of its resemblance to this palace in Lhasa, Tibet.

Last but not least is the Hemis Gompa, built in 1630 and located 25 miles (40 km) from Leh. It's the biggest, wealthiest, and best-known gompa in Ladakh. Its popularity partly stems from the major summer festival held here in honor of Guru Padma Sambhava's birthday. It also has the largest thangka (Buddhist painting) in Ladakh, unfurled once every 12 years. Be sure to check out the frescoes on the verandas. Upon returning to Leh, you'll also visit the Shanti Stupa on a hill above the city. Built in 1995, you can see panoramic views of Leh and the Indus Valley from the stupa.

Day 3: Transfer to Uley, Stop at Monasteries & Palace Ruins

After a hearty breakfast, you'll pack up and hop aboard a waiting vehicle to drive northeast to the village of Likir. The 33-mile (53 km) journey will have some stops to enjoy famous sights along the way. The first is at the gravity-defying Magnetic Hill. This gravity hill is an optical illusion in which a downhill slope appears to rise uphill. Park the car in a marked spot, and you can watch as gravity slowly pulls it "uphill."

Next up is Basgo Castle. Perched atop a hill and surrounded by peaks, these palace ruins house a few splendid temples. While the ruins themselves are impressive, the biggest draw is the spectacular views of the confluence where the Indus and Zanskar Rivers meet. Eventually, you'll arrive in the village of Likir and visit the Likir Gompa, a Buddhist monastery. The star attraction is the 75-foot (22 m) gilded statue of Maitreya Buddha.

Then, continue north to Uley. Known as the snow leopard capital of the world, this village has only a few households but draws plenty of travelers eager to glimpse this elusive animal. After settling into your accommodation, you can have dinner in town before resting up for tomorrow's adventure.

Day 4: Transfer to Rizong, Trek to Yangthang Village

This morning, you'll head south with your driver and guide to Rizong, where a monastery stretches in a circular arc at the bottom of a canyon on the north side of the Indus. Founded by Lama Tsultim Nima in 1831, Rizong is a gompa of the Gelugpa, or Yellow Hat, sect, a Tibetan Buddhism school.

After visiting the monastery, start your first day of trekking to the village of Yangthang. The route will take about three hours, and lunch awaits in your comfortable homestay upon arrival. The rest of your day is free—enjoy walking around and doing some people-watching before returning to the homestay for the night. 

Day 5: Transfer to Hemis Shukpachan, Cooking Class with Local Family

Leave early on a relatively short walk to the village of Hemis Shukpachen, which sits in a green valley dotted with ancient chortens (stupas). From here, embark on a four-to-five-hour scenic trek on a gentle slope, crossing a stream before climbing up to Tsermangchan La, a mountain pass at 12,300 feet (3,750 m). After a short rest, return to Hemis Shukpachen and check in at the camp/homestay.

Later, take a walk around the village before attending a cooking demonstration and dinner, where you'll experience the warm mountain hospitality of the locals. Observe the cooking process and admire the interior decoration of the houses before tasting the delicious dishes prepared here. 

Day 6: Trek from Hemis Shukpachen to Themisgam via Ang

The first leg of today's five-hour trek will take you on an almost flat walk from Hemis to the chorten, marking the Rongtil La pass. From here, you can see the multicolored mountain face of the second pass of Meptik La, at 12,730 feet (3,880 m). After a short, steep descent to the base, head up to Meptik La, which looks like a steep wall but can be climbed in half an hour on a slow, leisurely walk. At the top, you'll be rewarded with epic views over the surrounding mountain range.

A two-hour gradual descent through the village of Ang and a short transfer will bring you to the village of Themisgam at an elevation of 10,500 feet (3,200 m). There, you'll visit the town's historic monastery, built in the 15th century. Once a thriving spiritual compound, today it's run by a single monk on duty. Afterward, you'll transfer to your hotel or camp for the night. 

Day 7: Transfer to Leh, Stop at Lamayuru Monastery

In the morning, walk uphill (or drive, if the road allows) to a nunnery overlooking the fertile valley. Continue until you reach Themisgam Monastery, where you can admire its ornate interiors once again. After the visit, meet your guide/driver for the ride back to Leh.

On the way, you'll stop at Lamayuru Monastery. Founded in the 11th century, Lamayuru sits on a promontory above the valley and is one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh. According to the stories, this valley was once a lake where nagas (holy serpents) lived, and the Bodhisattva Madhyantaka prophesized that the lake would one day be emptied and a monastery would be built here. After enjoying the views, you'll continue to Leh and your hotel.

Day 8: Rafting Adventure on the Indus River

Get ready for some adrenaline-pumping action, as today, you'll brave the rapids on a rafting trip along the Indus River. The scenery during the adventure is spectacular, as this section is one of the most beautiful whitewater streams in the Himalaya. Your guide will provide a safety briefing, and after you don the provided equipment, you'll hop in the raft and set off down the Indus. The run takes you between gorgeous mountains, many dotted with tiny villages and grand old monasteries. Also, this is a thrilling but safe route, as the rapids are an easy Grade II or III.

Day 9: Transfer to Nubra Valley, Visit Diskit Monastery

It's another early start as you leave Leh on a drive to the Nubra Valley. The route takes you along Khardung La—the world's highest motorable road—and Khardungla Pass, which sits at an astounding 18,379 feet (5,602 m). Enjoy the dazzling views that stretch south over the Indus Valley to the peaks and ridges of the Zanskar range and north to the giants of the Saser massif. Nubra Valley, or Ldumra (Valley of Flowers), is nestled between the Karakoram and Ladakh ranges, a desert expanse with an elevation nearly 10,000 feet (3,000 m) above sea level. 

After arriving, you'll proceed to Diskit Monastery, which sits high atop a cliff. See the elevated cupola here, which has a fresco that depicts Tibet's Tashihunpo gompa, and take in the expansive views of the valley and village below. Another attraction is the region's double-humped camels—and yes, a ride on these creatures can be organized.

Later, you'll continue driving to Hundar. Often referred to as the "desert in the sky," this village is known for its dunes and barren landscapes. Upon arrival at your homestay, you can take a stroll around the village and watch the sunset over the sand dunes in the distance.

Day 10: Transfer to Leh, Free Evening

After breakfast, checkout of the homestay and drive to Sumur, another highland village steeped in rich culture and Tibetan Buddhism. The scenic route runs 26 miles (42 km) north and crosses the Shyok River, after which you'll arrive in town. Sumur is famous for its 19th-century monastery, Samstanling Gompa, which sits amid pleasant green meadows. This gompa, which belongs to the Gelukpa order, houses a fine collection of idols, frescos, and silk thangkas (Tibetan Buddhist paintings). Later, you'll make the five-hour drive back to Leh and have the evening free.

Day 11: Drive to Kargil, Stop at Gurudwara Pather Sahib

This morning, set off on a six-hour scenic journey down the Leh-Kargil Road. As the name suggests, your ultimate destination is Kargil. Sitting on the banks of the Suru River, this town lies at an altitude of about 8,780 feet (2,676 m) and is surrounded by rugged mountains and lush valleys.

It's a long drive, but there will be plenty of exciting stops along the way. One highlight is a visit to Gurudwara Pather Sahib. This 16th-century temple holds significant spiritual importance for Sikhs as it's believed to be the site where Guru Nanak Dev Ji, the founder of Sikhism, vanquished a demon. After the visit, continue to Kargil, arriving in the evening.

Day 12: Transfer to Srinagar, Houseboat Stay

It's another six-hour drive as you leave Kargil early for the ride west to Srinagar. Along the way, you'll stop at Drass, a town and hill station that happens to be the coldest place in India (winter lows average around -4°F/-20°C). While here, you'll enjoy spectacular views of the famous Tiger Hill and other snow-clad peaks. After the stop, continue to Zojila, a mountain pass at 11,571 feet (3,527 m). On the descent, you'll notice the scenery change dramatically, going from barren mountains to the lush green hills of Kashmir.

You'll then pass through Sonamarg, known as the "meadow of gold" due to its fertile valleys surrounded by snowcapped mountains. Eventually, you'll arrive in Srinagar, a city in the green Kashmir Valley on the banks of the Jhelum River. It also encompasses Dal Lake, famous for its floating gardens and houseboats.

Speaking of which, you'll stay in one of these floating residences for your time in Srinagar. These traditional wooden boats are well-designed and fully equipped with modern conveniences and comfy beds. Moreover, they're fixed in place, so there's no need to worry about seasickness.

Day 13: Guided Srinagar Tour, Visit Pahalgam

After a leisurely breakfast, meet a local expert guide and hit the streets of Srinagar on a sightseeing tour. Highlights include visiting lakeside temples and shrines and Nishat Bagh, a terraced Mughal (Mongol) garden dating to the 17th century. It's quite impressive, as it's the second-largest such garden in the Kashmir Valley.

Later, you'll meet up with your driver and spend the rest of the day exploring Kashmir. Specifically, you'll travel to Pahalgam, a hill station surrounded by gorgeous mountain scenery, wildlife sanctuaries, Hindu shrines, and cave temples. It's a three-hour drive, during which time there will be ample opportunities to stop and snap photos.

Among other other locales near Pahalgam, you'll stop at Betaab Valley. This picture-postcard river valley is famous as a shooting location for many Bollywood films. At the end of the day, you'll drive back to Srinagar.

Day 14: Morning Market Tour, Shikara Ride & Visit Gulmarg

You're in for a treat, as early this morning, you'll hop on a shikara (traditional wooden raft) and head over to the floating vegetable and flower market. Located right in the middle of Dal Lake, this is India's only floating market. Follow the vibrant colors and aromatic scents as you browse fresh locals sold by locals right from their own boats. 

After sampling the local produce, you'll meet your driver for a half-day tour of Gulmarg. Located a couple of hours away from Srinagar, this hill station and ski resort encompasses one of the most beautiful parts of Kashmir. In fact, the story goes that it was discovered by a Kashmiri romantic poet in the 16th century who was inspired by its grassy slopes blanketed in wildflowers.

During a stop, you can indulge your inner poet as you relax on the slopes and marvel at the panoramic views of the Kashmir Valley. Skiing and snowboarding are also an option. At the end of the day, you'll return to Srinagar and enjoy a final farewell dinner in the city.

Day 15: Fly to New Delhi, Depart

Alas, it's time to say farewell to northern India. This morning, you'll transfer to the airport in Srinagar and board a 1.5-hour flight to New Delhi, the country's largest city. Here, you'll board your connecting flight home. Safe travels, and come back soon to discover more of India! 

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