First of all, our local specialist was Nadia ...

South Africa | Jun 2 - Jun 20, 2024

Very small hotel (maybe five rooms), but our room was large, modern, and gorgeously furnished. The hotel is very close to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. The adjacent (and larger) sister hotel has the full service staff and a full bar and restaurant, but the Dock House has a small dining room (adjacent to our room) where they served breakfast (supported by the main restaurant) several of the days we were there. It was almost like having our own private dining room. The staff was VERY friendly, helpful, and accomodating. One of us came down will an illness that needed medical attention and they were so helpful in arranging for a "house call" by a local doctor (who arrived in less than 30 minutes!). We can't thank them enough for the help they provided.

Gorgeous location by the Zambezi River. We frequently saw wildlife between the walkway to our room and the river (and from our balcony). The room itself was remarkable -- half outside (but covered) and half inside. The room included a VERY well-stocked wet and snack bar (there was one both inside and outside). And all complementary with the room. We had all breakfasts, one lunch, and a couple dinners at the hotel. All were superb.

We were lodged on a 4-cabin houseboat for a two-night cruise on the Chobe River. Our cabin was in the front of the boat and had the only outside balcony (of the four cabins) which was on the front of the boat. The common areas (dining and lounge) were upstairs. The meals (all-inclusive) were terrific. The staff was always friendly and helpful. The cruise provided wildlife viewing from the houseboat as well as more "up close and personal" small boat excursions once or twice a day. When the wildlife was on the shore and we could motor up close in the small boat, we actually did get quite close (elephants and baboons). All in all, a delightful experience. We followed this cruise with a couple safari camps/lodges. This was a nice experience, but given the choice, we think we preferred the safari game drives as the wildlife was more diverse and more up close.

Highly recommended. Your lodging is a tent, most definitely (no heat or A/C), but gorgeous furnishings (easy chairs, dressers, nice rugs, and full bathroom). One whole wall is floor-to-ceiling screens for viewing the savannah (the staff rolls down a canvas wall to cover these screens during evening turn-down. The common areas (bar/lounge, living "room", and dining area) are all outside but under cover. There is also a large fire-pit and a small pool. Very opulent for a "tent" camp, for sure. We loved it.

We stayed here two nights during our "layover" in Johannesburg. This is a very pleasant, secure, hotel. The room we had was large, clean, modern, and very neat. No complaints whatsoever. The breakfast buffet provided LOTS of cold options and hot options could be ordered off the menu. We had two dinners at the hotel. The first was excellent (the chef came out and we acknowledged his fine work). Unfortunately the second dinner was a bit disappointing -- the meat entree was not a good cut and was not cooked the way we had asked for it. To their credit they did offer to redo it or remove it from the bill (we declined both offers).

Beautiful property with separate buildings for various functions: reception (open air), restaurant (inside seating and outside seating on the HUGE patio overlooking the Sabe River), lounge and bar, gift shop, spa, exercise gym, and of course the individual rooms (each almost their own lodge, although some are adjoining for larger parties). Nothing is over one story high, so it is well hidden in the forest. The various buildings are connected by boardwalks. Just beautiful. We can see why Lion Sands was recently (July 2024) rated as one of the top 100 hotels (#73) in the entire world by T&L Magazine. (https://www.travelandleisure.com/wba-2024-hotels-world-8661177)

It was a rainy day in Cape Town so our tour was not all it could be. Our tour guide, Michele Bakker (Just Mich), made the best of the crummy conditions. We did a short driving tour of the downtown area, visited the Diamond Works, The Company's Garden (it was a nice walk, in spite of the drizzle), Green Market Square, and the Bo-Kaap District (including the delightful Art du Cap Gallery). The tour was supposed to include the arial cable car ride up to the summit of Table Mountain, but it was closed due to weather (and remained closed for the next couple days). The weather did finally clear enough on our last full day in Cape Town for the summit to open and we dashed up. It was spectacular. Don't miss it, if the weather permits. One activity in Cape Town that was booked for us by Nadia (included in our Kimkim package) was dinner at the Gold Restaurant (transfers from and to the hotel included) for this evening of the first full day in Cape Town. Since there isn't a place to review this activity separately, I'll say something about it here. Bottom line... don't miss this experience (if you can get in). They have one seating per night and seat several hundred guests (and, apparently, are usually sell out well ahead of the date). It's an evening of music, dance, drinks, and (of course) food. The evening starts with a lesson in playing the drum (each guest arrives at their table with a drum sitting in their chair). This was so much fun! Hearing several hundred drums in unison (well, sort of) was incredible. There was a huge fixed tasting menu with dishes served over the course of an hour or two, intermixed with more music, dancing, and skits. They even offer complementary face painting (my wife took them up on the offer). The evening ended with some audience participation dancing on the stage. A really fun and unique experience. If you're in Cape Town, don't miss it!

The day started with a doctor visit at the hotel ("insisted" by the staff as well as our tour guide, Michele Bakker). Good advice. The doctor arrived within 45 minutes of the front desk calling in. She diagnosed my wife's condition (sinusitis) and provided medication on the spot, as well as prescriptions that we picked up later in the day (in Simon's Town before returning to Cape Town). This is neither here nor there with respect to today's tour, but it does speak well of the hotel staff and our tour guide. Both were sincerely concerned about my wife's illness. She started feeling significantly better after taking the provided medication. Now... the tour. Spectacular! Leaving Cape Town, the weather was still marginal (and stayed that way all day in Cape Town, apparently) but as soon as we got around Table Mountain and were heading south, the weather improved dramatically and we had very nice weather for the tour. There was a localized downpour as we were leaving the cape (heading for Simon's Town), but it was short lived. Dramatic scenery is the name of the game for today -- Hout Bay, Chapman's Peak Drive (wow, just wow!), Witsand Bay, Smitswinkel Bay, the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point (and its lighthouses), and Boulders Beach (African penguins). -- this is NOT an exhaustive list. We saw lots of wildlife along the way... elands, ostriches, dassies, penguins, and many other birds. The day was topped of with a great dinner (included in the tour!) at Saveur Restaurant in the scenic seaside town of Simon's Town. All in all, a splendid, splendid day. If you're visiting Cape Town, don't miss a drive down to Cape Point. Our private tour with Michele Bakker was the perfect way (from our perspective) to experience the wonderful scenery.

On the evening of our arrival in Victoria Falls, we took a very pleasant couple-hour boat ride on the Zambezi River. To call it a "cruise" may be a bit of a stretch and being on the "Signature Deck" may be a bit misleading (there was only one deck). This was a smaller craft (just the one deck) -- which was nicer, I think, than the multi-deck boats we saw on the river. The boat was not crowded at all -- maybe ten travelers which made for a really pleasant, quiet, and laid-back experience. The staff on board were very attentive and helpful. We were served snacks, small bite appetizers (lots of different options -- all adding up to a full meal), and drinks (including alcoholic ones and some specialty mixed drinks). All were included in the base cost of the cruise (which, in turn, was included in the Kimkim package price). The craft was furnished very nicely with tables and comfortable chairs as well as nice potted plants to give a nice ambiance to the whole experience. Although the dock was really quite close (easy walking distance) to our hotel, transfers were provided. Probably a good thing, considering the wildlife we saw around the hotel. As sunset approached, we saw lots of wildlife including elephants, crocodiles, and hippos. The sun setting "into" the Zambezi River was gorgeous.

After our morning tour of the falls, Wild Horizons delivered us to the Lookout Cafe (and back to our hotel afterwards). Having a reservation (this lunch was included in our Kimkim package), gave us a table right at the railing overlooking the Zambezi River gorges. The restaurant wasn't crowded, but a group that was with us on the tour of the falls came to eat here without a reservation -- they were seated a ways back from the railing. The views were great and the lunch was delicious. The waitstaff was very attentive and very friendly.

NOTE: Our elephant encounter was with the Wild Horizons "Elephant Encounter", NOT "Through the Eye of an Elephant" -- apparently a competing, similar experience offered in Victoria Falls. This experience may have been the highlight of our entire vacation in Southern Africa -- it's a tough call, but it was right up there! We started early in the morning (a 6:30 am pick-up at the hotel) and were driven out to the Wild Horizons reserve. They have a small lodge there where we had morning tea, coffee, juice and snacks while we completed some paperwork and orientation. We were the only guests on this encounter (the first of the day) and we did not see any others until we returned to the lodge. Our guide (who was SUPERB!) loaded us up in the Land Rover and took us out to find the elephants. Along the way we saw other wildlife, including impalas and giraffes. When we got to the elephants (probably 7 or 8 of them) we were greeted by their handlers - a team of 10 men who stay with the elephants all day. We spent the next hour or so out of the Range Rover amongst the elephants while they rummaged for food (including knocking down a tree!). We were able to get as close as we wanted, touch them, and talk to them. Magical. We followed them (in and amongst them) on foot through the bush to a feeding spot where we gave them some treats (similar to rabbit food) -- either by tossing it directly into their mouths (they were obviously used to this routine) -- the "trunk up" method -- or by dumping it into their nostrils at the end of their trunk -- the "trunk down" method. So much fun. When the treats were gone, the elephants moved on (with their handlers). We followed them for a ways in the Land Rover before heading back to the lodge where we enjoyed a delicious and very generous breakfast with our guide (all included). After checking out their gift shop (yes, we made a few purchases), we were transported back to our hotel. What a special and unforgettable experience!

This was mostly a travel day - getting from Victoria Falls to the Chobe Princess houseboat (for a two night stay). It involved an uneventful approximately one-hour drive from our hotel in Vic Falls, across the border into Botswana (where we switched to a new van and a new driver), then to Kasane Immigration (for entry into Botswana). We then took a small motorized craft on the Chobe River past the Chobe Princess houseboats (three of them) to the Namibia shore to go through Namibia immigration (the houseboats, although on the river, officially reside in Namibia). We then took the small motorized craft back to our houseboat. It was kind of a laborious process with lots of moving parts, but went pretty much without a hitch. Fortunately all these connections and transfers were included in the Kimkim bookings and our local agent, Nadia Kahn, arranged everything expertly. Once on the Chobe Princess III houseboat, we were shown to our cabin (a very nice and spacious room... for a houseboat) with its own balcony off the front of the boat (none of the other three cabins had balconies). The rest of the day included a wildlife viewing boat ride (on a small skiff) and a nice dinner on the houseboat. The upper level of the houseboat is a very pleasant common area -- dining area and lounge inside and a sundeck outside. For the meals, we all ate together at one table -- there were seven guests total. It was a nice communal experience with some very pleasant fellow travelers.

NOT APPLICABLE. Our itinerary did not include a visit to Kruger National Park proper, although the Lion Sands Game Reserve (where we did spend two partial and two full days), that I have reviewed separately, is nearby.

We had a little mix-up with the transfer from the airport to our hotel in Johannesburg. Our flight from Maun was rescheduled (same times, but on a different carrier). Our travel agent (Salty Travel) was aware of this (and, in fact, notified us of this change) but failed to notify the driver that was picking us up at the airport. So... the driver thought the flight was cancelled or something and didn't know how to find us. We communicated via WhatsApp with our contact at Salty Travel and got it sorted out (they apologized for not informing the driver of the change). We hung out in the arrivals lounge until our driver found us. In all, it wasn't much more than a half hour delay. The drive from the airport to the hotel was uneventful. Johannesburg was really socked in with smog in the late afternoon during this drive. Our driver told us this was not unusual with a lot of wood and coal burning for heat. (We did not take any pictures of our arrival in Johannesburg or the of the drive to the Peech Boutique Hotel in Melrose.)

Our departure from Lion Sands River Lodge, flight from Skukuza AIrport to Johannesburg, and evening departure for London (all in one day) went very smoothly. We had to arrange our international flights (Johannesburg to London to Seattle to Pasco, WA) ourselves but these meshed seamlessly with the connections that Nadia Kahn set up for us as components of our Kimkim itinerary. We can't thank Nadia Kahn (formerly with Salty Travel) enough for the flawless itinerary she set up for us. We had lots of back and forths to fine-tune this itinerary and we settled on what turned out to be a home run. Why Nadia is no longer employed by Salty Travel is beyond me. We wish her well in her future endeavors and hope she lands a job that values her skills as much as we do.

The weather today continued to be poor (rainy and drizzly) and one of us was feeling under the weather (diagnosed as sinusitis the next day -- and treated) so today was a bit of struggle. We tried to make the most of it. Our wonderful guide did what she could to make the best of it. We visited two wineries: Waterford Estate Winery and Oldenburg Vineyards. The grounds for both these wineries were gorgeous (even in the rain!). The staff conducting the tastings were very friendly and knowledgeable. We did buy one dessert wine (and accompanying chocolate) at Waterford Estate Winery and we were really impressed with the tasting presentation at Oldenburg Vineyards (wonderful crackers, olives, and cheese). We visited Boschendal Wine Estate -- we chose not to participate in a wine tasting, but we did enjoy a very nice lunch in their restaurant. The grounds (especially the produce and herb gardens) were gorgeous. Michele, our guide, made a wise choice and recommended that we forego the final winery (we weren't really feeling up to it) and, instead, visit Babylonstoren Gardens. We spent about an hour or so walking around the exquisitely manicured and diverse gardens. The rain had let up some (although it was still gloomy) so we had a nice walk enjoying the multitude of flora. After Michele returned us to Cape Town, we went down to the waterfront and had a nice fish and chips (gourmet version!) at the Harbour House Restaurant.

Spectacular! No wonder these falls are so famous! Our Wild Horizons guide took a small group (5 or 6 of us, I think) along the trail that borders the cliff opposite the falls so we were able to experience it from many different perspectives. Ponchos (provided) provided some protection from the mist, but we still got rather soaked (particularly lower legs and shoes) near the mid-section of the falls (it wasn't rain -- the skies were blue). The amount of mist is very wind dependent. For us, there was one section where we couldn't see the falls at all through the heavy mist. But it was very dramatic to see the fall appear through the mist as the wind let up and then disappear again as the breeze returned. The tour ends (before walking back to the car park) with a nice view of the old bridge that crosses the canyon downstream of the falls from Zimbabwe to Zambia. The guide has some interesting facts and stories about this bridge. The next day we took the helicopter ride over the falls (paid for out of pocket, not included in our Kimkim package). It was expensive, but well worth it! The views were spectacular.

We highly recommend this dinner experience. There may be nothing like it anywhere else. The venue is buried in a residential area of Victoria Falls (transfers were included with the booking; all part of the Kimkim package). It's partly indoors and outdoors, but all very peculiar (in a good way) and very funky. We started out by getting a tour of the property -- the various sources they use for herbs, spices, drinks, and the food itself. They are all obviously locally-sourced and I am sure authentic goods used by the locals in everyday cooking. They showed us the prep and cooking areas and some of the dwelling on the property (very uniquely decorated!). The furnishing were very distinctive and very fun (for example, one dining table had chairs made from cut up bathtubs). The dinner itself was an extensive "tasting" menu. Some were brought to the table as samplers (we tried everything and found them all very tasty) and for the main dinner we went up to the cooking areas and served ourselves right out of the pots on the stove. Everything was SO good! Even the very distinctive drinks. Okay, maybe the local beer (Utshwala) tasted a bit strange to me (very yeasty), but maybe it is an acquired taste. :)

Today we had a pleasant day aboard the Chobe Princess III houseboat. The excursion for the morning was a trip to visit a local village. My wife and I opted to stay on the houseboat (she was feeling a bit under the weather). We're glad we did... First, a lone elephant was in the river and swam really close to the houseboat seeming to be working on a thorough bath. He/She passed by the houseboat and eventually climbed up on the shore and moseyed along. Second, the other guests who went to visit the village seemed to give it an overall rating of "meh". I went out on the afternoon/sunset game-viewing boat ride on the skiff (not feeling well, my wife stayed back but said she saw lots of interesting wildlife out the big windows in our room). From the skiff, we saw lots of interesting wildlife, too: elephants, warthogs, kudu, hippos, giraffes, baboons and, of course, lots of birds. From the houseboat earlier in the day we spotted a female lion (albeit way off in the distance). Back on the houseboat, the provided meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner plus drinks) were excellent.

I've covered the wonderful Kadizora Camp in the lodging review. Our activities while at the camp included two game drives each day -- one on the day of our arrival and two on each of the full days were were there, so five in all. We had the option for one more drive the morning of our departure, but we stayed back at the camp to prepare for our late morning departure. The morning drive began before sunrise with tea, coffee and snacks in the dining area before loading up in the Land Rover. We were out looking for wildlife as the sun rose -- beautiful colors and lighting for photographs! The sunrises themselves were gorgeous. It was cold, but the camp provided fleece-lined ponchos. Our driver, Mr. Sparks, was very conversational and knowledgeable. He was really adept at tracking down the animals and was willing to go off road as needed to find them. It was a real adventure! The morning drive lasted until late morning -- almost four hours. Mid-morning we always stopped of a nice coffee, tea, juice and snack break (served off the front of the Land Rover). Midday activities included lunch and free time around the camp. There were options for helicopter rides. A couple of our Land Rover mates did take this flight (we didn't) and really enjoyed it -- they shared some really dramatic aerial photos of the Okavango Delta. The late afternoon wildlife viewing took several forms. The arrival day drive was in the Land Rover (similar to the morning drive). The next afternoon we went out in a small flat-bottom boat and explored some of the marshy areas of the delta. For our third (and final) afternoon activity, we took a ride in a Mokoro canoe (poled by a member of the camp staff). This was very calm and peaceful -- no big wildlife, but lots of birds - very peaceful and serene. All of these included stops at or near sunset where we enjoyed each other's company, watched the sun set, and indulged in some complementary drinks (of our choosing) and snacks. We then returned to the camp. The drives started about 3:30 pm and lasted until after dark. After returning to the camp we had a small break before congregating in the dining area for dinner.

Our detailed Kimkim itinerary stated: "After breakfast you will be collected from the hostel and shown around the sites of Johannesburg like a local. Start off with a visit to Soweto, South Africa’s biggest Township. Here you will have the opportunity to take some photos at the iconic Orlando Towers and Soccer City, home of the World Cup Final. You then head to a local food market where you can have a light lunch, shop for local arts and crafts and listen to some live music. After lunch, it's time to visit to Constitution Hill, home of our South African Democracy and an integral part of our history. You then end the tour with a walk through the park at Zoo Lake, a pleasant end to the day. " It did also say that the itinerary was flexible and could be changed according to our interests for the day. The Kimkim daily schedule stated "After breakfast, your private guide will pick you up for a half-day tour of Soweto and the Apartheid Museum. Following the tour, you'll enjoy an included lunch." What we actually got was the latter -- mostly Soweto and the Apartheid Museum, but no lunch. The guide took us to see a couple of Nelson Mandela's homes (mansions) that he lived in during his later years (not in Soweto). We just looked at them from the street and he told us a bit about them. He then took us to Soweto and drove us through a more upscale neighborhood -- we saw a bit of the mid-scale and lower-scale neighborhoods from a distance. We then stopped at the Mandela House for a tour. The guide for the house was very congenial and did a nice job explaining the history. Quite emotional. Our guide for the day then took us to the square where they were beginning to set up for the annual Youth Day commemoration of the Soweto Uprising that took place on June 16, 1976. (The day we visited was June 16th.) We then visited the Apartheid Museum where our guide showed us through some of the more significant exhibits. It is a huge museum; one could easily spend a day here. All in all, it was quite depressing and disturbing, but some aspects were rather joyful; for example, where they documented the formal end of apartheid in South Africa. This was the end of the tour; our guide drove us back to the hotel. Lunch was NOT included.

I've covered the accomodations at Lion Sands River Lodge in the lodging section of these reviews. Spoiler - wonderful! The game drives (like Kadizora Camp that we visited earlier in this vacation) were two per day; one morning drive starting before sunrise and the second afternoon drive ending after dark. Each lasted for several hours. We had the middle part of the day to relax (have lunch, with options to visit the pool, gym, and/or the on-site spa); of course we had lunch but did not partake in the other activities. Our guides (Raymond as the driver an Amu as the spotter) did a terrific job. We were amazed how they were able to track down a single leopard (from tracks on the road and sounds from birds and other animals and where the sounds were coming from). The terrain is "wooded savannah" with lots of trees, gullies, rocky outcrops, and dry stream beds. This made for some fun Land Cruiser cross-country travel in search of the wildlife. The Lion Sands Game Reserve is adjacent to some other reserves. There were a couple times when we saw some wildlife on one of these adjacent reserves but could not get closer as our guides were not permitted to cross the boundries. Nonetheless there was plenty of wildlife for us to see and to get close to. Plenty! Like Kadizora Camp, we stopped for a mid-drive coffee, tea, juice, and snack break (mixed drinks for the afternoon drive!) that was served off the front of the Land Cruiser (a grate folded down to horizontal to serve as the table). This was always a nice experience. On our last afternoon drive, all the Land Cruisers for the lodge (six, I believe) met in one place for the break -- they had a nice buffet set up on folding tables with lots of appetizers... and, of course, the drinks. On our second full day (we spent 3 nights at the Lion Sands River Lodge, so we had a total of six game drives), we did a bush walk with our guides, Raymond and Amu, right after the morning game drive. It was just the two of us and Raymond and Amu. They drove us out to an area they considered "safe" for walking and we walked through the woods for about an hour. They showed us some of the tricks of the trade that they learned growing up in the bush; e.g., making a toothbrush from a plant stalk, playing a spitting game (like we do with watermelon seeds) with... uh... dried pellets of animal dung (I don't remember the animal), making fiber-fill from shredded leaves, etc. On the way back to the Land Cruiser we stopped to see a group (crash) of rhinos (including a couple babies!) out of the water (we had seen them on the earlier game drive, but then they were all in the water). It was a fun and very "personal" experience.