Five of the most amazing days ever.
Iceland
|
Oct 9 - Oct 14, 2022
We did so much in five days that my head is still spinning. The detailed plan, with driving directions and all confirmations and reservations made it possible to stay on schedule and see as much as we possibly could. Duncan worked with me to make changes as needed before the trip, including some last minute changes due to a traveller not being able to go with us. It all worked out with minimal stress for me. Duncan's expertise and knowledge of Iceland was invaluable, and resulted in a week packed with activities and no wasted time.
Iceland itself is an incredibly beautiful country, with dramatic, and at times otherworldly landscapes that have to be seen to fully appreciate. Waterfalls everywhere, history that goes back over a thousand years, and the "Fire and Ice" aspect make it a destination for anyone, but especially those who enjoy the outdoors. We bought new hiking boots for the trip and they were well used every day. We were cautioned that a fall (October) trip meant potentially mixed weather, and this trip didn't disappoint in that regard, but we got three nice days out of five, with one incredibly windy day, and one very rainy and cloudy day to round it out. We packed layers, with a good winter coat and rain pants to keep us warm and dry, and they worked. Our rainy day was just as full and fun as the others.
Must see spots from our trip and our perspective would include the lava fields at Fagradalsfjall. Parking area P2 is a short hike to the tip of the flow, and about a ten minute walk to the edge of the lava field where you can collect a sample for a souvenir and photo. If there's an active eruption (which there wasn't for us) it will take a much longer hike to see it, but this stop is easy. There are other trails that go farther to other parts of the valley and lava fields.
The Bridge Across the Continents is another quick and easy stop. There isn't much to it, but the impact of standing at the rift between two active tectonic plates is pretty impressive to contemplate, and it's fun to walk across the bridge from Eurasia to North America (and back).
The Blue Lagoon is a classic, and while more touristy than other hot springs, it is big and impressive, and warm and nice. I would recommend it for a final day activity to relax and unwind before flying home.
We spent the first night in Reykjavik and enjoyed the town. If seeing the city itself is on your list, then plan to spend one or two days there. It's a great town, and worth seeing, but we had a quick afternoon before dinner and bed and then on to the next day's adventures.
Whale watching at Reykjavik harbor was fun and easy, and we got to see whales! Several white nosed dolphins, four Minke whales, and two Humpback whales. The boat is large and comfortable, with inside seating to keep you warm, as well as full weather suits so that you can go up on deck without freezing when it's cold outside. On deck is definitely the best experience, even if it's cold. Our crew did a great job of looking out for whales, and helping us all look in the right places to see them. The two humpbacks came up alongside the stern for photos, which was a real treat. Do be careful with the directions to the ticket office; there is more than one operator, with different locations at the harbor. You don't want to be at the wrong one and miss your boat. If you are heading out of town afterward and want a good burger for the road, I recommend the Plan-B burger place on Grandagarður street. Very tasty.
Þingvellir National Park was a great stop for us. The visitor center has a large area that shows the history of Þingvellir back to its use in the earliest days of Iceland's history as a place of government. You can easily spend an hour in the visitor center, and there's a lot of park outside of that, so plan your time accordingly. We took a hike to the waterfall and then back past Thingvallakirkja (church). There are many hiking trails that you can follow if you want to spend the day.
The Geysir geothermal area is small but a fun visit. It doesn't have to take much time, so it fits into the schedule pretty easily. There were two highlights for us; one was visiting the place where all geysers got their name (though that original Geysir is no longer active), and the other was the very active geyser that erupts on about a five to seven minute cycle, so you never have to wait long for a show. More for the "fire" list. We were scheduled to go to Gullfoss after Geysir, but we spent so much time in Thingvellir that we ran out of daylight, so that will have to be on the "come back for more" list.
Kerid crater is a good stop for a short hike. The crater adds to the "fire" checklist, and there is a hiking trail around the upper rim, as well as inside along the water's edge. The blue-green water is beautiful. It makes for another easy and impressive stop.
Waterfalls. What can I say? Each is different, and all of them are beautiful. Seljalandsfoss was especially fun to walk behind the falls. The climb to the top of Skógafoss is a steep and long one, but the view is impressive. On sunny days, when the sun is right, the spray from the falls creates a beautiful rainbow.
The black sand beaches are really impressive, and there are many to choose from. We stopped at Dyrhólaey, which has a few hiking trails, one leading to the ideal spot for a photo of the "door hole" arch. Just up the road from Dyrhólaey is Reynisfjara, which was a big hit with my son, who loved to explore the caves and climb on the rocks. The scenery is dramatic, so be ready with a camera, but stay clear of the waves and be aware; the surf is dangerous and bitterly cold. Don't mess with it.
Vik is a charming little town on the south coast. We didn't have time to explore but it would be worth going back to. In Vik there is a "Lava Show" where they melt lava rock and black sand in a furnace and then pour it down a sloping display in front of the crowd. The heat and sound and sight is really amazing, as is the information provided by the guide who runs the show. You learn a lot about lava, how it forms, how it flows, as well as some local history about the nearby Katla volcano and the glacier that covers it. We enjoyed the show a lot. There is a nice little cafe outside of the theater where you can have lunch. They have some really great soups and light sandwiches.
Further east is Jökulsárlón, where icebergs break off from Vatnajokull (say "vat-na yokurk" and you'll sound like a local) glacier and float out to sea past the "Diamond Beach". There are lots of icebergs to see, as well as some harbor seals swimming among them. You don't need to go out on a boat to enjoy the bay, but we took the amphibian boat tour, which was fun just for the amphibious boat, but also for the informative tour and ability to get closer to the icebergs. The tour guide did a nice job of presenting information about Jökulsárlón and Vatnajokull. It was interesting and a pleasant half hour tour. There are also tours that go out on smaller, faster, inflatable boats.
On the beach side of the road is "Diamond Beach" where pieces of ice from Jökulsárlón wash up on shore and sit on the black sand like diamonds in the sun. It is very pretty and you can get some nice photos, but be aware that, like Reynisfjara, and other popular places, it can be crowded, so you will probably not get that "lonely beach" photo.
Further east was our easternmost stop, for the Crystal Blue Ice Cave tour under the Breidamerkurjokull glacier. The tour begins with a ride in a large off road capable van, which carries you down a bumpy, twisty, though flat, "F road" for about a half hour to a parking area where you then hike across the glacial moraine to the foot of the glacier. The walk is about twenty minutes and is not difficult, though the path is not paved. The view of the landscape is dramatic and enjoyable in and of itself. Our tour guide Andrea was a wonderful resource, providing history, and natural science information about the glacier and its moraine valley. Once at the glacier it's similar to entering any cave, but this one is made of ice. The color and shapes were spectacular. The cave is large, and although there were a fair number of people there from multiple tours, there was plenty of room. Again, be aware that you aren't likely to get a photo without people in it. This tour was one of the real highlights of our trip. The folks at GlacierAdventure.is were great and provided a very memorable experience. If you've worked up an appetite on your tour, there is a restaurant just across from their office that serves Icelandic dishes. "Ice theme"; check, check, and check.
Along the ring road is Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, which was formed by a glacial lake that overflowed and cut the canyon long ago. It is deep and dramatic with a waterfall down one side. It doesn't take long to see it, and is a nice stop that won't take all day.
Back toward the west the "Lava Tunnel tour" is a cave tour of a lava tube that formed during an eruption long ago. If you have toured a cave before, this one is nothing unexpected, and in some ways less dramatic. There are no stalactites or stalagmites, but there are basalt formations and some mineral colors on the walls and ceiling that are unique to the lava tube. What makes this tour interesting is understanding how the tube was formed and seeing how the lava created the structures that cover the walls and ceiling. This tour isn't long, and it's not too far off the main road, so it would fit into a busy day without too much time taken. If you've seen other caves, and don't have a lot of time, this might be one to skip. I enjoyed it, but wouldn't give up a glacier tour or famous waterfall for it.
Iceland is a spectacular country; from the mountain climbing sheep to the volcanos, and glaciers, it is dramatically beautiful and full of surprises. My advice is to pack well for all types of weather because you are likely to see them all. Bring rain suits or a waterproof coat and rain pants. Waterproof hiking boots are a must. Most of all bring an adventurous spirit because this place has a lot to offer and it's almost all outdoors. Make sure that you pay attention to the cautions and advice about driving; there are some "gotchas" like the gasoline pump handle being green and the Diesel handle being black. Don't mess that one up. Make sure that your cell phone works in Iceland for voice as well as data. Mine (Verizon) worked fine for text and data, but was hit and miss for voice calls. Food was a question in my mind, especially in some of the less built up areas, but in general it's not hard to find something to eat, and as long as you are flexible, you will not go hungry.
October in Iceland was beautiful and amazing. We need to come back to see the summer, hopefully very soon.
Thanks to Duncan and kimkim for the excellent trip plan and coordination. It made getting the most out of our time so much easier. I have a memory with my sons that none of us will forget.
Hotel Reviews
This hotel is downtown on one of the main shopping streets. The location is very good for someone staying to see the city for a day or two. The rooms are nice, with a European style. The restaurant for breakfast was great. You'll want to figure out where to park in advance since there is no parking associated with the hotel itself. Street parking is available if you can find a spot, and there is a parking lot not far away but you don't want to be searching at the last minute.
The hotel is right on the Golden Circle, which makes it a good stop. The check-in area has a sort of family feel, while the separate building with the rooms is more like a traditional hotel. Breakfast in the morning is a continental buffet as at most places, and it was good. They have hot tubs out back in the evening to relax in.
Hotel Laki is an interesting mix for me. The location is stunning, with scenic countryside all around. The hotel itself presents well in the exterior and public areas. The restaurant, though a bit expensive, is nice and puts on a great buffet for dinner and breakfast (maybe lunch too?). There is a roof terrace that has a beautiful view, and is a great place to view the northern lights at night (if they cooperate). The surprise that cost them a star was the corridors and interior of the rooms. Both were clean and in good condition, but the decor was what I'd describe as "cell block chic", with plain, undecorated surfaces, and steel doors with turn-key deadbolts. It gave the impression of being fairly old, but maintained reasonably well, though it could definitely use an update. The rooms were compact but perfectly comfortable and clean. I would stay there again, but not if I was trying to impress a traveling companion. Any shortcomings were more than made up for by "Lady", a delightful Border Colley puppy (ca 2022) who met us in the front yard and invited us to play "fetch the stick", which of course we did.
Eldey is nothing fancy, but it is very convenient for staging prior to a departure the next morning. The rooms were simple and comfortable. There was a continental buffet breakfast in the morning, which helped get everyone going before heading out to our flight.
Activity Reviews
This is probably the most "touristy" thing we did on our visit, but it's almost required. They have a kind of spa theme now, that has been added since I was last there many years ago, but it is still warm and wonderful to soak in the water while the cold Icelandic air swirls around.
This was a great activity. The boat and crew were wonderful, with constant communication about what we were seeing outside, where to look for whales, and dolphins, etc. There was a large indoor cabin where you could stay dry and warm, and they provided cold weather coveralls so that you could go out on deck without getting too cold. Being on deck was the best place to be for seeing the wildlife. We got to see several Minke whales, two Humpback whales who came alongside for close up pictures, and many white nosed dolphins and countless sea birds.
I really enjoyed this presentation. They have a great presentation where the presenter talks about the types of lava, how it forms and flows, the geology of the local area and the huge Katla volcano that sits under a glacier just outside of town, complete with a story from the last eruption in the early 20th century. The lava show itself is impressive. The heat and sound and bright glow of the lava as it flows out is very cool. The presenter does a great job of helping the audience learn about the nature and behavior of lava. It's a great activity, especially on a rainy day.
Wow. This was my favorite activity of our trip. From the bumpy van ride to the parking area to the hike through the glacial moraine valley to get to the cave, just getting there was an adventure. The cave itself is beautiful and dramatic. Large enough to have many areas to see and photograph. I consider this a unique experience. There aren't many places where you can explore underneath a glacier.
This was an interesting and fun stop. Anyone who has gone on a cave tour will recognize this, however unlike a "normal" cave, the geology of the lava tunnel is very different. For example there are no stalagmites or stalactites, but there are basalt formations and colors created by the minerals deposited by the lava as it flowed through. I would say that this tunnel is not as visually dramatic as a lot of traditional limestone caves, but I found that the reality of what it is, a tube that lava flowed through and formed, was really special.
Thanks so much for your glowing review, John. It's great to get such detailed feedback on all aspects of your trip. You and your sons certainly packed it all in, never wasted a moment, and truly immersed yourself in the country. I'm so pleased that the rewards you received were commensurate with the effort you put into it. Now for the east, the north and the west! :)
Duncan