Memorable trip through northern Spain

Spain | Sep 9 - Sep 25, 2023

Our guide, Cristina, is incredibly knowledgeable of the history, religious significance, architecture, literature, and art of Santiago de Compostelo. Particularly meaningful to us is her passion for the Camino de Santiago and for all those who undertake this pilgrimage both as an act of faith and of personal commitment. Cristina offered advice about further exploration of this historic town that we could undertake on our own and traditional restaurants that we could enjoy. There is much to see and feel in Santiago de Compostelo. Having a guide such as Cristina allowed us see and learn more than if we were to walk around with a guide book.

Apparently, few Americans who visit northern Spain take time to explore the Rias Baixas region. Actually, this is one of Spain's many hidden treasurers with forested terrain, picturesque estuaries off the Atlantic ocean, quaint small towns, and, of course, great Albarino wines. We visited Palacio de Finfena, a small historic winery, where we tasted wines from 150 year old vines in Cambados. Further along are the exquisite islands of Arousa and Toja including the surreal Ermida de Toxa church covered in huge clam shells. We enjoyed a traditional Galican lunch in a waterfront local restaurant, Asodor de Chiringuito.

Oviedo is the historic center of Asturia, home to the Cathedral that marks the beginning of the original Camino de Santiago. The 8th century old town, though extensively damaged during the Spanish Civil War, has been completely renovated to provide the markets, shops, homes, and public buildings that are the hallmark of a vibrant old town. Our guide, Alejandra, is passionate about her home and a fountain of knowledge concerning the history, customs, traditions, and culture of this beautiful ancient town surrounded by a modern urban community. A particularly fun tradition is enjoying "sidrar" a refreshing mildly alcoholic apple cider served ceremoniously by holding the bottle overhead and pouring the liquid into a glass held below the servers waist, all without looking at the process.

Bilbao is more than the Guggenheim, but the Guggenheim is more spectacular that can be imagined. This spectacular building of soaring curvelinear architecture is a world class piece of art itself. The collection including Richard Serra's "Matter of Time" and the monumental sculptures "Maman" by Louis Bourgeios and "Puppy" by Jeff Koons, to name a few, are pieces that one can only see in Bilbao. The beauty and tranquility of the carefully curated riverfront blends seamlessly into the old town that has medieval roots and lovely 19th century art nouveau buildings. The Plaza Nueva is the hot spot of traditional pintxos and a gathering place for families of all ages.

We met our guide, Jose, at 7, rather early for Bilbao, but for us, the perfect time to begin our pintxos tour of the old town. Most of the Pintxos Bars we visited were in Plaza Nueva, a grand square surrounded by picturesque apartments and the home of some of the city's great food. Each of the establishments take pride in a particular style and ingredients of this seemingly infinite kaleidoscope of savory and sweet small plates. Typically, you take what you want from the beautifully curated displays and pay by the number of toothpicks left on your plate. Start with Basque country Txokoli, a slightly sparkling regional white wine and move up to fruity dry tintos from the Riojas wine region. Favorite tintxos include pulpo (octopus), anchovies, shrimp, and vegetables such as aubergine, tomatoes, peppers and olives.

Riojas is one of the world's great wine producing areas, home to the famous tintos of Spain. This dry rocky region south of the mountains that separate this southern Basque country from the cities of Bilbao and San Sebastian has a terroir perfect for the traditional tempranillo, macabeo, and graciono grapes. Our guide, Angel, really knows his away around the region and the wineries. Our favorite wines were from Luis Canas in Araba where we tasted several blends of differing vintage, all excellent. The tour included the spectacular medieval town, Laguardia, residing on the top of a high hill overlooking a sea of grapes in cultivation. Angel also took us to see Richard Gehry's (Guggenheim architect) architecturally splendid Marques de Riscal winery.

The northern coast of Spain from Bilbao to San Sebastian is spectacular with a modern highway twisting around mountains, through tunnels, and over viaducts with great vistas of the Bay of Biscay at every turn. We were particularly interested in going to Guernica and San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Guernica, now famous because of Picasso's poignant painting, is the Basque town that the fascists bombed during the Spanish Civil War. This war crime perpetrated by Franco with the help of Nazi Germany purposely targeted a market day full of civilians in an unfortified town. The Peace Museum is a solemn plea for peace among all the people of the world. A large outdoor mosaic of Picasso's painting is a must see in the old town. The traditional Basque Restaurante Bolina El Viejo is a must, full of local families, with wonderful local wines and a menu specializing in sea food.