Marvelous Morocco

Morocco | May 16 - Jun 1, 2024

Great location. We were able to choose which of the five rooms we wanted. The dinner and after-dinner entertainment was wonderful -- a great first-night introduction to Morocco! The staff was so friendly and helpful.

Very satisfactory accomodations. Nothing fancy, but clean and comfortable. The provided meals (dinner and breakfast) were excellent. It's located well north of Midelt and there's not a lot to do, but we did buy a couple beers at the front desk and took a short walk to a nearby lake which was very pleasant.

We would rate this hotel near the top -- relative to what we need in a hotel. It's definitely not "over the top" but it is so pleasant and comfortable. We had our own balcony overlooking the pool (and exterior dining) area as well as the gardens and farms and rocky cliffs of the Dades Gorge. The dining experience was exquisite -- some of the most elegant meals that the had on our whole vacation in Morocco.

This riad is "buried" (in a GOOD way) in the Marrakech medina. To get to it, we had follow a maze of narrow pathways, corners, and junctions. Delightful. Once through the front door, you're in a modern, elegant riad. The room was modernly appointed and very comfortable.

This is like having a bedroom in a palace! The common areas are stunningly elegant -- both the main areas on the ground floor as well as the smaller common areas outside the private rooms. Our own room was very neat, clean, and good-looking -- perhaps not on par, elegance-wise, with the common areas, but so suitable for our needs.

NOTE: We did NOT stay at the Riad Hicham in Chefchaouen. It was overbooked and Sharon, our local travel agent in Morocco booked us in the Lina Riad and Spa instead. She indicated that this was an upgrade from the Riad Hicham. This review is for the Lina Riad and Spa, NOT Riad Hicham. Lina Riad was wonderful! It was a bit of a walk up the hill from the main square and our room was up several flights of stairs -- almost the top floor. The benefit was that we had our own personal (and HUGE) balcony/patio overlooking the city and the valley beyond. Glorious. The breakfasts were superb -- we started getting the idea of how generous Moroccan breakfasts are -- so many types of breads (served without asking), unique (as well as "standard") preparations of eggs and meats, juices and hot tea or coffee. The Riad includes a spa (which we did not indulge ourselves with) but they also have a small indoor pool which you can book for an hour of private time. We did do this at the end of our full day in Chefchaouen. It was so relaxing! Not to be missed.

Very, well, palatial! Way above our "pay grade" but a special experience (probably for that reason). Our suite (and it was a suite with multiple rooms, two bathrooms, several sitting areas, and a walk-in closet) was spectacular. It opened out directly adjacent to the pool area.

Wonderful lodging in the desert (almost, if not literally). Our room was large, elegant (in a Moroccan, desert-y way), and very comfortable. The common areas are very spacious and nicely decorated. We spent some time around (and in) the pool which was very welcome after a hot day of travelling. The provided dinners and breakfasts were delightful. Highly recommended!

Our camel trek took us to the Madu Premium Camp (https://www.riadmadu.com/en/camp/premium-camp), NOT the Merzouga Dunes Royal Camp. This review is for the Madu Premium Camp. This desert camp was delightful. Upon arrival on our camels, we were checked in at an open-air reception area and taken to our tent. Our room had all the amenities of a luxurious hotel room. It was quite remarkable. If it weren't for the canvas walls, you'd never know you were in a tent! The dining "room" was outside (but covered); the floor were rugs on the sand (it worked so well). It was so pleasant enjoying dinner as the moon rose behind us. And the food -- terrific. The camp had a nice firepit with chairs and cushions for some after-dinner entertainment. We were exhausted and decided to forego this fun, but we did hear it from our tent! (Regardless, we had no trouble whatsoever falling asleep!) In hindsight, we should have joined in the festivities -- even though we were so tired, it's unfortunate that we missed sitting by the fire and more closely experiencing the music. We woke up early enough to experience the moon setting behind the dunes and then the sun rising a bit later in the east. The breakfast was so generous and so scrumptious (five different breads plus condiments, hard-boiled eggs, and a tagine egg dish and, of course, teas, juices, and coffees). It seemed like we spent so little time here -- arriving after sunset and leaving not too long after breakfast. A fleeting "moment" in our journey, but a very memorable one.

We were picked up at the airport by what turned out to be our temporary tour manager/guide, Said (until a switch on the way to Chefchaouen). Before heading to Rabat for the night we were given a quick tour of Casablanca -- just a quick photo op at Rick's Cafe and a tour of the Hassan II Mosque. The tour (included in the Kimkim package) was good. The mosque is relatively new (finished in the early 1990s), incredibly large (but just the 14th largest in the world) and very impressive architecture.

We were introduced to a local guide who showed us around the Hassan Tower, the Mausoleum of Mohammed II, and the Kasbah of the Udaya. Our guide was very knowledgeable and had good stories to tell. We found the Kasbah particularly interesting to explore. It was close enough to our riad (hotel) that we walked up there again in the evening to watch the sunset.

A pleasant driving day with stops at Volubilis and Meknes. At the Volubilis Roman ruins we had a local guide show us the site. He was knowlegeable and willingly answered our questions. It was fascinating to see so many mosaic floors and how well-preserved they were considering their exposure to the elements. We only made a quick stop in Meknes because so many of the interesting sites were in renovation and not open to the public. We were disappointed that we couldn't see some of these sites in more detail, but it was out of our (and our tour manager's) control. Upon arrival in Fes, we checked into our room at the Palais Faraj. Simply stunning! (The most exotic room we've ever stayed in, on this trip or any other. The views from the room were not spectacular, but the room itself... stunning.)

The tour of the Fes medina was fabulous. Our guide (tour manager and driver, too) guided us through the maze of alleyways and narrow pathways of the medina, visiting shops, the University of Al Quaraouiyine, the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the incredible (but very stinky!) Chouara Tannery, a pottery school, the Born Sud (fortress), the Jewish District, and the Royal Palace. It was definitely a "sensory overload" day. This is maybe stereotypical Morocco but it was sure a treat to see, hear, feel, taste (and smell!) it firsthand!

This was a driving day from the Ksar Timnay hotel, through Midelt, and on to our lodging, the Riad Madu, near Merzouga. We loved the drives (today and other days) through the Moroccan countryside -- glimpses of the rural life and culture and the gorgeous scenery. It wasn't "immersive" as we saw it from the back seat of our van, but it was close. We did make several stops along the way for photos. Hicham was good to point out things along the way and to answer our questions.

Today was a diverse, event-filled day with a tour guided by Hicham, our driver/tour manager. We started with a visit to the "black desert" where he left us off the explore the rocky desert terrain where fossils were everywhere (granted, most of them were fairly low grade). We found some, good enough to take home as souvenirs. We then stopped at a fossil museum and shop where we were given a very nice guided walk-through of the museum. The staff evaluated our "finds" from the desert - no real gems, but definitely verified as actual fossils. We bought one nice nautilus fossil from their shop. It was a really nice experience. Next, Hicham took us to the Rissani Market. This was a very different experience than the exploration of the Fes medina (or the Marrakech medina later in our trip). It's just as hectic and diverse but seemed so rural and local. I'm not sure if we saw any other tourists the whole time we were there. It is definitely a working market more than it is a tourist attraction. This authenticity made it a special and unique experience. Hicham then took us to the Chez Ibrahim Restaurant for lunch where, after several preliminary courses (all delicious), we were served the regional specialty, Medfuna (also known as Berber Pizza). Highly recommended. We then visited Dar Gnaoua where we were treated to music and song by Gnaouan musicians. The beat and rhythm were mesmerizing. Lots of fun. Finally, Hicham took us to a shop in Merzouga to but some scarves which will serve as our tuareg turbans (headdresses) for our upcoming camel ride into the desert for our night at the Madu Premium Camp. This was a fun day and well-orchestrated by our tour manager. It was a full day and we would not pass up any of the activities if we were to to do it again.

Although seemingly a very "touristy" activity, we are, after all... tourists! This was a really fun few hours as we rode the camels (guided by two very friendly and happy-go-lucky guides who were on foot), There were just four of us (plus our camels and our two guides); my wife and I and two nice ladies (mother and daughter) from France. We trekked to the Madu Premium Camp (tent camp in the desert) and got there a little after sunset. Along the way we got lots of nice photos and stopped to enjoy the sun as it set behind the dunes. The colors were just stunning! The guides were willing (even taking the initiative) to take pictures of us, individually and as a group.

As with other driving days (here, on our way to Marrakech), we made a few stops along the way. We stopped briefly in Ouarzazate and took a look at the Taourirt Kasbah (from the area across the street; no tour). Because of the sordid history (those who ruled from the kasbah), Hicham did not think it was worth our while to take a tour (even though it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site). On the way out of town, we took a brief look (photo op) at one of the several movie studios in the region. Again, we did not take a tour -- just looked at it from the outside. Our next stop was Aït Benhaddou, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here we did stop, and Hicham took us on a nice walk through the ancient (but still inhabited) hillside village, known for its earthen architecture (and also its use in various movies). We walked all the way to the top, to the ancient "bank" building (which, unfortunately was badly damaged in the September 2023 earthquake). The view down across the village and the valley beyond was breathtaking. After walking back to the more modern town on the other side of the river, we enjoyed a very nice lunch at Chez Brahim (Hicham was careful to take us to this particular restaurant to avoid the more touristy and crowded ones -- much appreciated!). The highlight of the remainder of the drive was traversing the Atlas Mountains along the Tizi n'Tichka Path. The winding, twisty highway was originally built by the French during their occupation of Morocco but a lot of it is being modernized now to widen it and straighten out some of the curves. We stopped at the top (the Tazart Rest Area) for a potty and coffee break and to take in the beautiful views. We proceeded into Marrakech where one of our hotel's staff met us at the van and escorted us through the maze of the Marrakech medina to our Riad -- our lodging for the next couple nights. This is one example of how the logistics for the trip were so well thought out and coordinated by Hicham, and well-executed. We had a very nice dinner at the M Rooftop Restaurant (recommended; they have traditional Moroccan options plus some "western" fare -- like hamburgers! -- if you need a break from Moroccan food; not us... we had Beef Tagine and Chicken Pastilla!). It was a nice day, although not as "action-packed" as many of our days so far in Morocco; nice to have a little break.

We took a cooking class at Khadija's Kuzina the evening of our first full day in Essaouira. This was one of the highlights of our entire trip. We had Hussein and Khadijah (and their young son, Amir) all to ourselves for the evening. It started with Hussein meeting us at our hotel (Villa Quieta), walking us to a main street, and then taking a horse-drawn taxi to his neighborhood. He asked us what we would like to prepare for dinner -- we kind of left it up to him, but we were interested in seeing cooking-with-a-tagine technique and also seeing how Bisarra (the fava bean soup that Hicham introduced us to in Marrakech a couple days ago) is made. We help Hussein do the shopping (fruits, vegetables, meat, dry goods, beans, olives -- and more, I'm sure) in his neighborhood souk (street market and shops). He then took us up to his flat (upstairs right in the middle of this neighborhood, literally above some of the shops) where we met his wife, Khadija (the chef) and their son Amir. We relaxed with tea and snacks in their living room while they prepped the kitchen (staging the ingredients) on the prep counter. Khadija then took over and showed us how to prepare the dishes for dinner -- of course, we had to participate and do much of the "work" ourselves. When it was all ready, it was served up on a table in the living room and we enjoyed an authentic home-cooked Moroccan meal. It was a really fun experience. And, of course, the food we prepared was superb!

Beautiful scenery along the way. Part way to Chefchaouen, we met up with our "permanent" driver, Hicham, who was bringing clients back from Chefchaoen (they continued to the airport with Said). After the "chinese fire drill" we and Hicham and his van headed for Chefchaouen. There wasn't too much notable along the way, but we did enjoy the scenery.

Hicham gave us a walking tour of Chefchaouen the day of our arrival (May 16) which was delightful. He showed us the narrow pathways and shops of the medina, the main square and the Ras El Ma Waterfall. Hicham was really good (throughout the trip) about offering to take pictures of us (often including himself, too, as a group "selfie") which was great. We had the rest of the evening to ourselves. Per Hicham's recommendation, we walked up to the Spanish Mosque (about 20 minutes) for a beautiful view of Chefchaouen at sunset (and the evening Call to Prayer from various mosques around the city and beyond). We finished the day with a nice dinner on the square. The next day (May 17; the actual day for this experience), Hicham took us on a super-scenic drive to the trailhead for the hike to Cascade d'Akchour. He accompanied us on a hike up to the first falls. There were charming swimming holes and creekside outdoor cafes (lots of taglines!). It was a delightful day trip. We had the rest of the day (after our return to Chefchaouen) further exploring Chefchaouen's medina, including a fascinating 5-story clothing store/riad. We had dinner at Riad Hicham on the balcony overlooking the main square and the kasbah.

Another nice travel day taking us from Fes to the Ksar Timmy hotel north of Midelt. We took a coffee break at the destination small city of Ifrane that looked more like a Colorado or Switzerland alpine ski destination, not a Moroccan village. Indeed, it is an upscale skiing destination (in the wintertime, of course). We stopped to feed the Atlas Monkeys (Barbary Apes) alongside the road on our way through the heavily forested Atlas Mountains. Some locals sold us some bags of carrot spears and we had fun feeding the tame monkeys. Later on, the drive through the high (unforested) farmlands made for good scenery and an interesting view into the Moroccan rural life: lots of sheep farms and sheep herds, some rather impoverished nomadic camps, and small villages (e.g., Azrou and Zayda). After checking in at the Ksar Timnay hotel, we bought a couple beers at the reception desk and took a short walk to a nice, quiet and scenic lake with views of the mountains off in the distance. This was a nice, relaxing day after our hectic day in Fes yesterday.

This was another driving day, but we had some really interesting stops along the way. But the day started out with a moonset, a sunrise, and a delicious breakfast at our desert camp (Madu Premium Camp) and a 4x4 drive back to Riad Madu. (One can opt for a camel ride back, but we decided to take the 4x4 -- it was fun riding over the dunes.) Shortly after leaving Merzouga, we stopped at the Khettaras Irrigation System, a no-longer-used irrigation system to bring water in underground tunnels down from the mountains to the desert. The system has long since been abandoned but a small section had been restored for exhibition purposes. We had fun trying out the pulley and bucket system for removing muck from the tunnel via vertical access shafts. We were also able to climb down in the tunnel. Very interesting. The drive towards Boumalne Dades took us through lots of "real Morocco" -- the rural landscape and small towns. We stopped at Toudgha Gorge and were left off to take a half hour walk along the road going into the gorge -- very narrow, incredible geology, and not to be missed. It is a little touristy with lots of souvenir stalls along road and lots of tourists (including us!). After the gorge, we stopped for lunch at Restaurant Inass in Tinghir. After our experience yesterday, we ordered light and shared... or so we thought! Ahead of the entree that we ordered, they brought us all kinds of lead-ins... bread, pasta, vegetables. And, of course, there was an included dessert. So much for cutting back! But we loved it. Further along, we stopped in the city of Tinghir where a local guide took the two of us on a walk through the cultivated oasis and some old city ruins. It was a very laid back and relaxing stroll and quite a contrast between the lush oasis and the dry, red crumbling structures of the ruins. Our walk ended at a Women's Rug Cooperative where we were shown the by-hand weaving process (with a loom but without a shuttle) and we were able to try it ourselves. We were shown the wide variety of rugs made by the women of the region -- some small and very simple... other huge and incredibly detailed. We now have one (a smaller one) in our front entryway. Hicham finished the drive by taking us up the Dades Gorge (which we would see several times in the next couple days) to our lodging at Chez Ichou. One thing special about this vacation is that even on the days that we are getting from Point A to Point B, our guide shows us some very interesting sites and gives us time to do some exploring. Today was one of those days.

We spent today in the Valley of the Roses with our tour manager, Hicham, some of his family and friends, and our travel agent Sharon Louthian (who is Hicham's sister-in-law) and lives here with her husband, Abdou (Hicham's brother), for a good portion of the year. This was a very relaxing and pleasant day where we enjoyed the company of Hicham and Sharon. We started the day with a grocery shopping trip -- freshly-butchered lamb (we saw it butchered) and fresh vegetables. We then went to Sharon and Abdou's house where one of their friends prepared a luscious lamb, vegetable, and couscous tagine dish. We all shared it at the table in Sharon's living room. It was SO good. Some other friends of theirs came by to help finish off the delicious dish. After this special lunch, Hicham, Sharon, and the two of us took a walk through Hicham's childhood neighborhood. Many of the buildings are abandoned now (unsafe due to substandard construction and deteriorating from old age) and the area is suffering from several years of drought. We tried bringing up some water from an old well that Hicham used as a child, but there was hardly any water to be had. He showed us the old (abandoned) home where he grew up. It was touching to hear his stories about his childhood and I bet it was emotional for him. It was a special experience. Hicham then took us to a local rose oil distillery where gave us a personalized tour and introduction to the distilling process. The shop was filled with the strong aroma of rose oil! Hicham used to have a job delivering products for this shop. We finished the day (except for dinner at Chez Ichou) with a drive back up the Dades Gorge (Sharon came with us), stopping at some of the scenic spots (red rocks, red buildings, the Monkey Fingers, and lush green flora) and on past our hotel to the dramatic Tisderine Bends and the oh-so-narrow upper Dades Gorge.

We spent most of the day with Hicham as he took us on a tour of the Marrakech medina and the major sites including Rahba Kedima Square, Ben Youseff Madrassa, Le Prince Avenue, the Bahia Palace, Moulay El Yazid Mosque, Koutoubia Mosque and Garden, a natural products pharmacy (Herboristerie Bab Agnaou), and, of course, the iconic Jemaa El-Fnaa Square. Hicham's style, which we really appreciated, was to lead us to the site (with some commentary along the way), give us an introduction to the history and the significance of the site, and then give us a little time to explore on our own. He was alway willing (and usually took the initiative) to take pictures of us, often including selfies of him with us. He always took several photos from several angles and zoom levels for us to choose from. One little special "surprise" was a stop at a small local sidewalk cafe (probably frequented almost exclusively by locals) to enjoy the Moroccan specialty, Bisarra, a fava been soup (often served with Moroccan home bread for breakfast). It was delicious.