Off-the-Beaten-Path Luxury in Chile: Wine Country, Marble Caves & Patagonia - 14 Days

Highlights

• Experience remote luxury at ecolodges, estates, and boutique hotels
• Sip local vintages at a historic vineyard outside Santiago
• Explore the forests, waterfalls, rivers, and lakes of Chile's Aysén region
• Venture into Torres del Paine National Park with hiking and horseback excursions
• Search for penguins, foxes, condors, and pumas on wildlife tours from Punta Arenas

Brief Itinerary

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Santiago, Dinner at Doña Paula

Welcome to Chile! This South American nation runs along the spine of the famed Andes mountains. Between the nation's snowcapped peaks and long coastline are valleys and diverse landscapes filled with all manner of natural wonders, from the northern deserts to the southern Patagonian wilds. The best hub from which to explore it is the capital city of Santiago. This metropolis of around seven million people is a prime tourist destination in its own right, filled with historical landmarks, grand parks, and excellent cuisine (which you'll discover shortly).

From the airport, your driver will transfer you outside the bustle of the city to Hotel Casa Real Viña Santa Rita, a sprawling vineyard and its 4-star hotel. Set in a wealthy estate on a 98-acre (40-ha) park designed by a French landscape artist, Hotel Casa Real looks the part. It features 16 elegant guest suites (with views overlooking the central courtyard), a grand dining hall, salons, and a neo-Gothic chapel dating to 1880. Upon arrival, you can relax by the pool or discover Santa Rita's terroir on a wine tour to taste its premium gold medal labels.

And when dinnertime arrives, you won't even have to leave the estate. The meal will be at the hotel's gourmet restaurant, Doña Paula, named after a freedom fighter and matriarch who sheltered 120 patriots during Chile's fight for independence. Within this century-old colonial building, you'll dine on premium classics like tuna tartare and grilled rib-eye. Of course, you can expect a wine list of top Santa Rita bottles to pair perfectly with your meal.

Day 2: Tours & Tastings at Viña Santa Rita

Thrilling adventures await, but for now, enjoy a relaxing day amid the gorgeous parks and vineyards of Santa Rita. After a leisurely breakfast at the 19th-century estate, you'll embark on a guided tour of the grounds, which includes visiting the centenary park, Roman baths, and neo-Gothic chapel. It concludes at the winery with a sampling of three premium wines paired with artisanal cheeses.

Spend the rest of the day enjoying the hotel amenities, and perhaps hop on a bicycle for a ride around the estate. There's also the option for a sunset wine tasting on the terrace. Following this, sit down for another epic dinner at Doña Paula, paired with sparkling and select wines. 

Day 3: Fly to Balmaceda, Transfer to Puerto Guadal, Quincho BBQ

Say goodbye to Santiago as you transfer to the airport for the 2.5-hour flight south to Balmaceda. This rural village is the gateway to Aysén—an unspoiled region of Patagonia undisturbed by mass tourism. It's known for rugged Andes peaks, rushing rivers, azure lakes, and native lenga forests. From Balmaceda, it's a four-hour scenic drive deeper to Puerto Guadal, located on the shores of Lago General Carrera (the second-largest lake in South America). This village is near some of Aysén's most thrilling natural wonders, including its famous marble caves and the northern Patagonian ice fields. 

Your driver will take you to Mallin Colorado Ecolodge, a premium wilderness lodge that fuses rustic charm with perfect comfort and modern amenities. Sitting on 55 acres (22 ha) in a secluded corner of the unspoiled Aysén region, the lodge's four cabins and six rooms offer premium views of General Carrera and the snowcapped Patagonian peaks surrounding it. Upon arrival, you can stretch your legs in the surrounding park or hit the trail on a horseback ride around the nearby native forest. There's also the option for a scenic helicopter flight over the northern Patagonian ice fields.

Rest assured that, in keeping with the spirit of Patagonia, Mallin also keeps its carbon footprint to a bare minimum. The hotel plants trees, reuses native wood, maintains a greenhouse, and recycles trash. Dinner tonight is also a regional event—a traditional Patagonian barbecue in the hotel's quincho (grill hut). Sit down to a meal of succulent roast lamb (locally sourced) accompanied by fresh salads and delectable desserts. The event also offers a firsthand look at the entire barbecue process via the quincho's fire pits. You can even take notes and try to recreate the experience back home!

Day 4: Marble Caves Boat Tour & Río Neff Excursion

Meet your driver in the morning for the one-hour transfer to the north side of the lake and Puerto Río Tranquilo. This village is the base for boat tours to the Capillas de Mármol, a network of marble caves near the lakeshore. These are the result of thousands of years of erosion, and the deep white crevices at the base of the giant marble pillars shine iridescent in the reflection of the water. On a one-hour private boat tour, you'll get right up close to these marvels of Mother Nature—be sure to take plenty of photos!

Afterward, you'll return to your hotel in time for lunch. Following the meal, head out on another private excursion to some of the area's many wonders. First, transfer by car to Puerto Bertrand, an idyllic village on the Río Baker, famous for its turquoise glacial waters and surrounding nothofagus (southern beech) forests. Continuing south, you'll reach the confluence of the Baker and Neff rivers, which converge in two distinct blue hues punctuated by a cascading waterfall. After some time to enjoy the scenery, you'll return to Mallin in time for dinner at the lodge.

Day 5: Day Trip to San Rafael Glacier & Boat Tour

Depart Puerto Guadal bright and early for the three-hour private transfer north to the ice fields of Bahía Exploradores (Explorers' Bay). This bay sits at the western end of Valle Exploradores (Explorers' Valley), which is situated at the confluence of the Río Exploradores, where it meets Laguna San Rafael. This valley is notable for its temperate forests, home to exotic wildlife like pudus and pumas.

Upon arrival, board a boat for a private excursion on Laguna San Rafael. Enjoy snacks and refreshments as you cruise along the tranquil delta waters while admiring the beautiful scenery. After about 2.5 hours, you'll reach Laguna San Rafael National Park and the San Rafael Glacier. Here, you can snap photos of floating blocks of ice and the various animals in the area, which include marine otters, sea lions, black-necked swans, and condors. Then, enjoy a light lunch followed by a glass of whiskey chilled with ancient ice from the nearby glacier. Later in the afternoon, you'll return to the pier at Bahía Exploradores and transfer back to Puerto Guadal.

Day 6: Lago General Carrera Nature Hike, Free Afternoon

After a hearty breakfast, treat yourself to a day of serenity as you explore this corner of Patagonia on foot. Right from your doorstep at Mallin Colorado, you'll strike out on a four-hour guided hike on one of the many trails leading from the lodge. No matter which route you take during this half-day excursion, you'll be treated to grand vistas of the lake and surrounding Cordon Contreras mountain range from various viewpoints. Keep an eye out for exotic wildlife like Andean condors and guanacos (a relative of the llama).

Reward yourself with another big meal back at the lodge. After eating, you can spend the rest of the day enjoying the various activities offered by Mallin, ranging from horseback riding to boat tours. In the evening, savor another gourmet meal at the lodge. 

Day 7: Morning Nature Hike, Transfer to Torres del Paine

It's another early start as you hit the trail once again on a morning hike around Mallin. The many trails that snake around the property range in difficulty. If you like, you can take it easy on a short trek along the lakeshore or give your legs a workout on a route that ascends a few hundred feet through native coigue and lenga forests. Whichever trail you choose, you'll have a half-day to enjoy Aysén's justifiably famous natural beauty.

Afterward, you'll meet your driver for the ride back to the airport and Balmaceda. There, you'll take a connecting flight deeper into Patagonia to Puerto Natales. This small port city on the Seno Última Esperanza (Last Hope Sound) is famous as a base for nature excursions. At the airport, another driver will take you 1.5 hours north to Torres del Paine, the crown jewel of Chile's national parks. This legendary protected area covers 700 square miles (1,810 sq km) and is renowned for its circuit treks. 

No need to admire Torres del Paine from afar, as you'll be lodging adjacent to the park. The Tierra Patagonia Hotel & Spa sits on the eastern end of Lago Sarmiento, one of the park's most famous and scenic lakes. The hotel is a 4-star boutique option whose spacious and cozy rooms are designed in a modern Scandinavian style and offer expansive views of the lake and granite peaks of the Paine massif. After dropping off your bags, feel free to unwind with a dip in the indoor heated pool or head to the outdoor Jacuzzi for a nice long soak.

Day 8: Torres del Paine Horseback Ride & Hiking

As an all-inclusive hotel, Tierra Patagonia will take the reins (quite literally) as it organizes all activities during your time in Torres del Paine. This morning, for example, you'll transfer a few miles by vehicle to Estancia Lazo, a remote cattle ranch just south of Lago Sarmiento. There, you'll meet the resident Chilean gaúchos (cowboys), who will lead you to the stables to meet your horses for the day. Then, saddle up and embark on a half-day adventure across mixed terrain.

For the first hour, you'll ride through ancient lenga forests until you reach a clearing, which rewards you with panoramic views of the Paine Massif. Continue along scenic trails, enjoying more great views of the park's iconic peaks and glassy lagoons. You can also complement the experience by combining the horseback ride with a nature hike around Lago Sarmiento. Afterward, you'll return to the hotel and can spend the rest of the day relaxing.

Day 9: Hike to Mirador Cuernos & Salto Grande Waterfall

There's no shortage of awe-inspiring viewpoints in Torres del Paine, and one of the best is located just a couple of hours from your hotel. Leave the hotel early on a 50-minute transfer by vehicle west around the lake to the trailhead, which lies on the shores of Lago Nordenskjöld. It's a scenic drive, during which you'll be treated to picture-postcard vistas of Laguna Los Cisnes, Lago Sarmiento, and Nordenskjöld.

Upon arrival at the trailhead near the Sarmiento entrance of the park, you'll set off on a brisk two-hour hike also filled with spectacular scenery, such as the sprawling French Valley and the Horns of Paine granite pillars. Eventually, you'll arrive at the famous Mirador Cuernos viewpoint, which offers grand vistas of the lofty peaks of Cuernos and Paine Grande. 

But the day's adventure doesn't end there. From the viewpoint, you'll transfer to nearby Salto Grande, another of the park's highlights. One of the most powerful waterfalls in Patagonia, the thundering Salto Grande plunges 49 feet (15 m) over a gorge into the foaming river below. After snapping plenty of photos, you'll cap the day with a gentler hike along the azure waters of Lago Pehoé before transferring back to your hotel.

Day 10: Grey Glacier Hike & Suspension Bridges

Today, you'll really experience the majesty of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field—a section of which is part of Torres del Paine. From the hotel, you'll transfer about 1.5 hours to the Lago Grey sector of the park. Once there, board a boat for a cruise toward Grey Glacier, a massive ice floe that feeds the lake. 

Disembark the boat on shore, and from there, set off on a 2-mile (3.5 km) hike north through native lenga forests and across suspension bridges. The route will take you to premium viewpoints where you can look out to Grey Glacier and other ice floes in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The hike continues for another 6.8 miles (11 km), following a scenic trail that is part of the famous W Trek, the most famous circuit hike in the park.

Eventually, you'll arrive at Lake Pehoé, which you'll cross by boat. From there, meet a driver for the ride back to Tierra Patagonia.

Day 11: Transfer to Punta Arenas, Optional Activities

Say goodbye to Torres del Paine as you hop in a private car for the four-hour trip south to Punta Arenas. Founded in 1848 on the eastern shore of the Brunswick Peninsula, this colorful and historic city was once home to the creme de la creme of Patagonian society. Today, it's a tourist destination and hub for adventures in Torres del Paine.

In town, your driver will drop you off at La Yegua Loca (The Crazy Horse). This family-run boutique hotel lies in the city center, a five-minute walk to Cerro de la Cruz (a viewpoint overlooking the Strait of Magellan). The property is a beautifully restored home dating to 1929, with well-equipped theme rooms that evoke a time when Punta Arenas was a frontier outpost. You'll experience it at the restaurant, which serves regional classics based on recipes from the owners' immigrant grandparents, and when you sit down at the pulperia, a throwback to the general store/taverns of the early 20th century.

Day 12: Day Trip to Magallanes Reserve, Dinner at La Yegua Loca

Get ready for another scenic Patagonian forest hike, as you leave this morning on a transfer a few miles east of Punta Arenas to Magallanes National Reserve. This natural sanctuary encompasses 33,359 acres (13,500 ha) of unspoiled wilderness filled with lenga forests, turquoise lakes, and plenty of wildlife. Unique specimens that live here include guanacos, foxes, cougars, and a variety of birdlife.

On a three-hour hike, you'll experience the lush vegetation up close. Specifically, you'll follow the Las Lengas Circuit, a captivating 2.2-mile (3.6 km) trail filled with rich biodiversity and natural wonders. As you walk through the native forests and around the bodies of water, keep an eye out for the aforementioned animals, as well as birds like woodpeckers, ducks, and (if you're lucky) Andean condors. 

After the park, you'll transfer back to Punta Arenas and will have the rest of the day free. For dinner, snag a table at the hotel's restaurant. La Yegua Loca is the place to come in Punta Arenas for traditional Patagonian cuisine. Even better, you'll enjoy this memorable meal on the terrace, which offers prime views of the city. As for the food, expect time-tested local recipes imagined by a forward-thinking chef. Highlight menu items include garrón de cordero (leg of lamb), Croatian gnocchi, crab risotto, and perfectly grilled strip steak. Cap the meal with a decadent dessert, like the famous chocolate sphere.

Day 13: Day Trip to King Penguin Park

It wouldn't be a trip to Patagonia without visiting the region's famous penguin residents. Leave your hotel just before 8 am and board a ferry for the ride along the Strait of Magellan south into Tierra del Fuego, arriving at around 11:15 in the morning. Known as the "end of the world," this wilderness-filled island is the southernmost developed region in the world.

Upon reaching the outpost of Porvenir, you'll visit a small museum to glean a bit of local history, followed by a break for lunch. Then, at 1 pm, continue by vehicle 74 miles (120 km) to Pingüineras (Penguins Park). This scenic route follows the coast for about two hours and includes stops at historically significant sites.

At around 3 pm, you'll arrive at Pingüineras. Then, you'll have about 1.5 hours to marvel at the dozens of king penguins that call this park home. And while it's prohibited to approach them, you are allowed to view them from a distance of 65 feet (20 m), so don't forget your camera! Afterward, you'll transfer north for about three hours, passing rugged Patagonian forests on your way to Bahía Chilota. There, you'll board a ferry for a 30-minute journey back to the continent, disembarking around 9:30 pm. Then, you'll make the quick trip back to Punta Arenas.

Day 14: Lunch at La Cuisine, Fly to Santiago, Depart

Savor the flavors of Chile one more time on a very special lunch before departing the country. After a leisurely morning in Punta Arenas, you'll head over to La Cuisine around midday. This charming restaurant occupies a historic building and features Belle Époque artwork and stills from French New Wave cinema on the walls.

But the real treat is the food. Run by an enthusiastic French couple, La Cuisine's menu offers classic dishes utilizing fresh Patagonian ingredients. Highlights include Magellanic lamb shank with quinoa risotto, king crab lasagna, and other delights that capture the essence of authentic French cuisine.

After eating, you'll transfer to the airport in Punta Arenas. There, you'll board a plane to Santiago and catch your connecting flight home. Until next time!

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