An amazing Columbian adventure
Colombia
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Feb 11 - Feb 20, 2024
My wife and I just returned from a 9-10 day tour of Columbia. The tour was quite ambitious as we visited Bogota (one full day), Amazonia (2 full days), the Coffee region (3 full days), and even a quick one night stopover in Cartagena (one day). This involved a lot of flights as all flights connect through Bogota. So it was quite tiring and rather head spinning. The good thing though was that we got to see an amazing diversity of peoples and places in one tour.
What we saw of Bogota, on an e-bike tour!, we found to be both beautiful and interesting, and Monserrate and the views of Bogota from it, were amazing (but buy a pass that gets you to the head of the line if you can).
Amazonia was, for us the greatest highlight of the tour. We found it, as lovers of wild life, birds, and peoples/cultures with dignity, a simply charming, magical place. We were based out of Punto Nariño, and travelled everywhere by small boat, except on our return trip to Leticia on a river "bus". Every boat trip was a guided natural history adventure, stopping to see the dolphins at Leticia, and on both banks of the river to photograph birds, monkeys, or to have some other curiosity pointed out. We navigated lakes with water lily pads and flooded forests. We visited two different indigenous communities and a monkey rehabilitation sanctuary, and photographed humming birds, Macaws and Toucans, birds hiding in the trees or in flocks, and butterflies. I did a night walk in the rain forest and photographed frogs and sleeping morpho butterflies. We visited a indigenous cultures museum and shopped for unique crafts in Leticia.
We also loved the Coffee Region. This is a mountainous or hilly, moderate temperature, rain forest region with coffee, fruit orchards, avocados, etc., as well as national forest. It is beautiful and the climate is very pleasant when we visited (February). We visited a beautiful hillside farm, where we were shown a fabulous orchid collection and treated to a delicious lunch, and the farmhouse, where we watched many colorful birds and humming bird feed. We visited two very beautiful rural towns, Filandia and Salento, where we visited a basketry workshop/studio and were taught by a craftsman to weave small baskets. We stayed in a charming hotel at a farm in a national park in the Corcora valley and did an early morning birding exploration in the hills. And we visited a botanical garden, where we learned about the local ecology, with a large enclosed butterfly habitat where we could view native butterflies up close. Our last night was spent in Cartagena, in a fabulous hotel just adjacent to the old city. This is also very beautiful, historical, with a lot of shopping and fine dining, quite different from our previous experiences. (We didn't have time to investigate the beaches, but not our thing anyway.)
In almost all of our adventures we were accompanied by a driver and a guide. We have very little Spanish, but the guides spoke English, and all were super knowledgeable about birds and could identify them by their calls and spot them in the trees, as well as being knowledgeable about the local cultures and history. Though it is hard to single any out, Sergio Leones in Amazonia and Juan Camilo in the Coffee Region were truly outstanding, and we learned so much from them. But even the drivers seemed to have a great knowledge of their natural history and be able to spot the birds. Our small boat trip from Leticia to Punto Nariño to Leticia on our day of arrival was a fascinating adventure as our Spanish-only speaking boat driver made many stops to point out birds and other things along the way and we had a great time trying to communicate in hand waving, my tiny amount of Spanish, and an iPhone app.
Our accommodations were outstanding, although in Amazonia they were, as you would expect, a little less refined. All were beautiful and full of character. Particularly of note were Sazagua (in Pereira) and Sazagua Boutique (in Corcora), being beautiful and having great food, and our hotel in Cartagena.
Indeed, everywhere we went, the food was outstanding, and, as you would expect given our itinerary, of a great variety.
Did we feel safe in Colombia? Yes, certainly anywhere we went we had no concerns at all (although we were with guides most of the time). Indeed I found the Columbians we met to most generous, and, especially, to be extremely pleased to be able to share their beautiful country with us, along with its natural wonders.
Would we go back again? - YES. But, probably with a more relaxed schedule, doubling down on the things we liked the most, and with some new twist.
Last, but not least, many thanks to Margarita, our Kim-Kim local specialist, who suggested the itinerary, modified to our satisfaction, worked out all the details, hired the guides, made all the bookings, watched out for us throughput the trip, and was a model of efficiency and courtesy.
Hotel Review
I really enjoyed this smaller boutique hotel and highly recommend it. The location was beautiful - in the Corcora Valley at a farm that had been absorbed in the Cocora National Natural Park. The property was large and there were several beautiful trails, one to a lovely waterfall, another a loop over the hill above the hotel with gorgeous views and many birds. The hotel itself is I think a modified farm house. Rooms are comfortable. The hosts, Juan-Paulo and Natasha were most welcoming and concerned for our comfort and needs, and spoke good English. The food, we were there for two breakfast and dinners, was fabulous. Indeed, we learned the Juan-Paulo had had restaurants in Greece and Italy, and had been chef at the better known sister hotel in Pereira.