Self-Guided Hiking in Patagonia - 15 Days

Highlights

• See the highlights of Santiago, Chile
• Embark on the famous W Trek in Torres del Paine
• Take a boat tour to witness the ice walls of Perito Moreno
• Hike to lakes and glaciers around El Chaltén

Brief Itinerary

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Santiago (Chile), Optional Activities

Welcome to Chile! Home to dynamic metropolises like Santiago and Valparaíso, this long, thin country on the western edge of South America is even more renowned for its stunning natural wonders. Not least of these is its southern Patagonia region, which boasts some of the most unspoiled wilderness anywhere in the world—not to mention fantastic hiking opportunities in its national parks. You'll have plenty of time for trekking later—first up is an introduction to Chile through its capital, Santiago.

Upon arrival at the airport, a driver will pick you up and transfer you to your hotel in the city. After checking in, you can stretch your legs on a self-guided tour. One can't-miss landmark is the Palacio de la Moneda. Chile's opulent presidential palace is a short stroll from the Plaza de Armas, the city's main square. It's home to the Palacio de la Real Audiencia (Palace of the Royal Court), built in 1808, which houses the National History Museum of Chile. Also on the plaza is the Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral, an impressive neoclassical building that dates back to 1753.

For panoramic views, hike (or ride a gondola) up Cerro San Cristóbal, a hill that rises 984 feet (300 m) over the city. For a local experience, head to Mercado Central, a large municipal market with many restaurants and vendors selling fresh fish and seafood. Later, you can grab dinner at a cool eatery in the bohemian Bellavista neighborhood. In recent years, Santiago has emerged as a global foodie destination. Chilean chefs are reinventing traditional dishes, like empanadas, cazuelas (stews), and seafood with ingredients harvested all the way from the northern deserts and southern Patagonian regions. 

Day 2: Fly to Puerto Natales, Optional Activities

In the morning, you'll transfer back to the airport in Santiago and catch a three-hour flight south to Puerto Natales. This small port city is famous as the base for excursions into Torres del Paine National Park. It's less touristic than other Patagonian hubs and has an air of small-town tranquility. Upon arrival, another driver will pick you up and transfer you to your hotel. After checking in, you'll have the rest of the day to explore.

Here, you can enjoy simple pleasures like strolling the promenade fronting the silver waters of the Seno Última Esperanza (Last Hope Sound). In the distance, you'll see the peaks of Cerro Benitez and Cerro Toro, and the sunset views are phenomenal. In the evening, have dinner in town before getting to bed at a reasonable hour—you have a big hike tomorrow.

Day 3: Transfer to Torres del Paine, W Trek (Day 1)

Wake up early and hop on a bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park. The total distance is 70 miles (112 km), and the drive takes about two hours, with a short stop at Cerro Castillo Village. The scenery along the way is incredible, as you'll get your first glimpse of Torres del Paine's massive peaks, plus some exotic local wildlife like guanacos.

You'll arrive at the Laguna Amarga main entrance and register at the park office. Then it's a quick shuttle ride to check in at the Las Torres sector inside the park. From here, you'll embark on a 9.6-mile (15.5 km) hike, which takes all day to complete. You'll start by following a trail up Mount Almirante Nieto, which features stunning views of Lago Nordenskjöld and the Asencio Valley below. After two hours of hiking, you'll reach Refugio & Camping Chileno, where you'll break for lunch.

Then it's another hour of hiking past ancient lenga forests until you arrive at a moraine. The next part is a 45-minute hard scramble to the top and Mirador Base Torres. In this spot, three granite pillars jut out of the ground over a silver lagoon and make for the best view in the park. You'll also see the towering peaks of nearby Torre Sur, Central Tower, North Tower, Condor's Nest, and Glacier Torre. After enjoying the views, you'll hike back to Refugio & Camping, where you'll overnight.

Day 4: W Trek (Day 2): Lago Nordenskjöld to Refugio Cuernos 

After a hearty breakfast, you'll hit the trail again, this time on a 6.8-mile (11 km) trek to Refugio Cuernos, which takes about four hours. Located on the shore of Lago Nordenskjöld, the refuge sits at the foot of two jagged peaks known as the Cuernos del Paine (Horns of Paine). Along the way, you'll skirt the Almirante Nieto group of mountains and cross a few rivers. Throughout the hike, you'll be treated to views of glaciers and soaring peaks. When you finally see the awe-inspiring sight of the Horns of Paine, you'll have reached Refugio Cuernos, where you'll overnight.

Day 5: W Trek (Day 3): French Valley to Refugio Paine Grande 

This morning, you'll head out on one of the W Trek's most challenging hikes: the trail to French Valley. This 10.7-mile (17.3 k) route starts with two hours of ascents and descents near Lago Nordenskjöld into a valley. Due to the intense inclines, it's best to start an hour early and bring only the bare necessities in a daypack. Next, a one-hour ascent will take you up to a viewpoint where you can look out to the incredible French Glacier.

The trail continues for 20 minutes until you reach another campground, Campamento Británico. Here you'll be rewarded with a final lookout point offering some of the most jaw-dropping views of the entire circuit. Admire the peaks and glaciers of Paine Grande, Cerro Hoja, Cerro Máscara, Cerro Catedral, and Cuerno Norte before returning to Campamento Italiano. There, you'll gather your things and continue to the shores of Lago Pehoé and Refugio Paine Grande to spend the night.

Day 6: W Trek (Day 4): Grey Glacier to Refugio Grey 

After an energizing breakfast, you'll embark on a 6.8-mile (11 km) hike. It's a four-hour excursion that will take you through a small forest along the shores of Lago Grey, a massive lake famous for the majestic glacier that terminates on its shores. After about two hours of hiking (in windy weather), you'll get your first glimpse of the marvel of Mother Nature known as Grey Glacier. Then continue hiking for two more hours until arriving at Refugio & Camping Grey, where you'll spend the night.

Day 7: W Trek (Day 5), Glacier Tour, Transfer to Puerto Natales 

Start the day with a hike along the park's famous suspension bridges. Later in the afternoon, you'll board the Grey III catamaran for a tour of Grey Glacier, which feeds the lake of the same name. You'll cruise across the waters to the face of the glacier, which towers over the shore. Grey Glacier is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, and at its peak, its walls are 98 feet (30 m). Of course, you'll have ample time to snap photos.

After the boat tour, you'll have a short hike across the windswept beach and through the forest before heading to a nearby hotel, where you'll catch a transfer and then a bus back to Puerto Natales. There, you'll check into your hotel.

Day 8: Free Day in Puerto Natales

Today is yours to relax in Puerto Natales and recharge your batteries. If you like, take a leisurely stroll on the waterfront and/or spend time at a café with a good book. If you're interested in an activity, one of the best is a day trip to Isla Magdalena. Here you'll find Los Pingüinos Natural Monument, a protected area home to Chile's largest colony of Magellanic penguins (over 100,000 of them). During a one-hour visit, you can walk right alongside these flightless birds on a path to an old lighthouse that offers sweeping views of the Strait of Magellan.

Day 9: Transfer to El Calafate (Argentina), Optional Activities

After breakfast, you'll hop in a car for the three-hour transfer to El Calafate. Upon checking into your hotel, you can relax and spend the afternoon exploring the town and its surroundings. Options include browsing the local shops, doing some souvenir shopping, and hanging out at patio cafés. For dinner, be sure to sample the local cuisine of Argentine staples, such as roast Patagonian lamb, ojo de bife (rib-eye steak), and empanadas. Wash it all down with a glass or two of fine malbec from the Mendoza region.

Another fun option is to prime yourself with information on the nearby glaciers by visiting the Glaciarium. This multi-media center has an ice museum, various interactive displays, and educational information regarding glaciers. For fun, it even has a bar made totally of ice.

Day 10: Perito Moreno Boat & Walking Tour, Transfer to El Chaltén

Leave in the morning on an exciting all-day excursion to the famous Los Glaciares National Park, located about an hour away from El Calafate via private transfer. As you enter the park, you'll catch your first glimpse of the majestic Perito Moreno. This expansive glacier flows down from the Andes out over the turquoise waters of Lago Argentino and has a surface area of 96 square miles (250 sq km). Wait a bit, and you'll witness "calving," the awe-inspiring sight of ice breaking off the facade and crashing into the tranquil waters below.

While not the only glacier in the area, Perito Moreno is definitely the star of the show. It's unique in that it is one of the few advancing glaciers in the world, which results in the calving mentioned above. Upon arrival, you can admire Perito Moreno from several different vantage points via the network of wooden walkways strategically situated in front of the glacier. Even better, you'll also get up close and personal with its massive ice wall (which reaches 230 ft/ 70 m at its tallest) on a boat tour.

After a day admiring the glacier, you'll transfer three hours north by car to El Chaltén. This town lies right above Lago Viedma and is a major hub in Patagonia for mountain hikes. If the skies are clear, on the ride in, you'll have incredible views of the iconic massif of Mount Fitz Roy. Once in town, your driver will drop you off at your hotel, and you'll have the rest of the day free. You can embark on short hikes or spend time relaxing at one of El Chaltén's many cafés and craft beer bars. 

Day 11: Self-Guided Hike to Laguna de los Tres

Wake up early and head out on a full-day self-guided hike. With several trailheads just outside of town, El Chaltén is the perfect starting point for treks into the Fitz Roy range. The route you'll follow today covers 12 miles (20 km) and takes 8-9 hours to complete.

Your destination is Laguna de los Tres, a gorgeous lagoon from which you'll enjoy panoramic views of three peaks: Fitz Roy, Poincenot, and Torre. During the trek, you'll also stop at incredible viewpoints looking out to the Piedras Blancas Glacier. When you arrive at the lagoon, you'll break for lunch on its shores and have time to relax before descending back to El Chaltén.

Day 12: Self-Guided Hike to Laguna Torre

In the morning, you'll set off on a self-guided hike from El Chalten to another gem of Patagonia: Laguna Torre. This lake sits at the foot of the granite peak of Cerro Torre and is fed by glacial meltwater. The trail you'll follow runs about 12 miles (20 km) and takes you through bright green lenga forests and around blue lagoons until you reach the lakeshore. After relaxing and admiring the views, you'll return to El Chaltén along the same path. In total, the hike takes between 7-8 hours to complete.

Day 13: Self-Guided Hike to Laguna Toro

After breakfast, you'll head out from El Chaltén for today's 12-mile (20 km) hike, which takes 7-8 hours to complete. It begins with an uphill section along a large open plateau called La Pampa de Las Carretas. Eventually, after passing through a lenga forest, the trail will open up to stunning views of Lago Viedma. Finally, you'll reach Toro Valley, from which you'll enjoy prime views of the hanging glacier on Monte Huemul. After crossing a few small bridges and a river, you'll cut through a young lenga forest and arrive at Toro Lagoon, where you'll take a break.

Later, continue on, passing through the forest and traversing alpine terrain dotted with wildflowers. Keep an eye out because in this section, it's possible to find the remains of marine fossils such as ammonites and belemnites, which are about 100 million years old. Eventually, you'll arrive at the final viewpoint, which offers unparalleled views of the Torre and Fitz Roy massifs. After enjoying lunch amid these beautiful vistas, you'll return to El Chaltén.

Day 14: Self-Guided Hike to Lago del Desierto

Embark on your final scenic hike around El Chaltén this morning. It begins with a 30-minute transfer by vehicle out of town and up a gravel road to Lago del Desierto. This scenic lake is famous for its deep-blue waters, surrounding Antarctic beech forests, and snowcapped mountains. From here, embark on a four-hour trek up to Laguna del Huemul, a mountain lake complimented by a glacier. During the hike up, you'll enjoy 360-degree views of Lago del Desierto and the valley below.

Once at Huemul, you'll take a break, refill your water bottle, and enjoy the panoramic vistas. Then, hike down to the lakeshore and hop on a boat for a 40-minute ride around the lagoon. During this excursion, you'll pass waterfalls, hanging glaciers, and enjoy views of Fitz Roy's north face. After the boat tour, you'll hike back down the trail and return to El Chaltén.

Day 15: Transfer to El Calafate & Depart

You've conquered some of the most intense hikes in Patagonia, now it's time to kick back and enjoy the victory. In the morning, you'll transfer back to El Calafate, where you'll hop on a flight to Buenos Aires and catch your connecting flight home. Until next time!

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