Ultimate Guide to Tortuguero National Park: Costa Rica's Wild Northern Caribbean Coast

Introducing Tortuguero

Tortuguero is one of 28 national parks in Costa Rica, and the country's third-most visited. This is impressive, considering it's comprised primarily of a network of alluvial marshlands on the northern Caribbean Coast, making it accessible only by plane or boat. Its remoteness hasn't stopped travelers and tourists from flocking to Tortuguero annually to catch a glimpse of its unique aquatic ecosystem and abundant wildlife, namely the sea turtles that nest here. Tortuguero offers one of the best turtle nesting and hatching experiences in Costa Rica.

The park was created in 1970 by the Sea Turtle Conservancy (a non-profit research and conservation group) in tandem with the Costa Rican government to protect sea turtle nesting sites. But within the park's 312 square kilometers (194 square miles) you'll find much more than marine life. Its biodiversity stems from the myriad rainforest, mangroves, rivers, marshland, and lagoons that exist here. 

Despite being located just a little more than four hours from Costa Rica's capital San José, it's a different culture in Tortuguero, as indeed you'll find it all along the Caribbean Coast. The small population of just 1,500 residents is a melting pot of indigenous, Hispanic, Miskito, and Afro-Caribbean influences. Linguistically, this reveals itself in the fact that both Spanish and Creole English are spoken in the region. 

Turtle Spotting in the National Park

Far and away the most popular activity in Tortuguero is turtle spotting. The park's nearly 22-mile (35 km) long beach that starts at the mouth of the Río Tortuguero represents one of the few nesting sites in the country home to most major species of sea turtle, including leatherback, hawksbill, loggerhead, and green sea turtles.

The reason it's so hard to see many species in one place is that many of them are threatened. Not so long ago green sea turtles were near extinction due to hunting. Moreover, hawksbill turtles are still listed as critically endangered because their meat is viewed as a delicacy in certain cultures, and many also take their colorful shells for decoration.

Not to worry in Tortuguero, though. Here, there are no poachers, which leaves mother turtles free to come and lay their eggs once a year. The nesting season takes place from July through October, mostly at night. So if your aim is to witness this phenomenon of marine biology, there are some things you need to know.

First, no visitor is allowed on the beach unaccompanied after 6:00 p.m. To view the nesting, you will have to enter the beach with a professional guide. And no photos are allowed of the nesting—the mother turtles must be allowed to lay their eggs without being spooked or interrupted. 

Trust us, the visit is worth the planning. Leatherback sea turtles can reach up to seven feet long, and seeing a handful of these giants arrive onshore to lay eggs is quite the sight. If you're really lucky, you'll not only get to see the mothers laying eggs (they can lay up to 100 at a time), but you might arrive at just the right time when the hatchlings emerge from underground and race toward the surf, propelling themselves along the sand into the water like little wind-up toys. 

Crafting Your Itinerary

The nice thing about Tortuguero is that despite its relatively large size, you can experience most of its ecological activities and do a good amount of wildlife spotting in very little time. But even if you're only passing through as part of a multi-leg tour of the country, two days is enough for the highlights. For inspiration, take a look at this 12-day Costa Rican itinerary that covers the essentials.

You can mix and match a visit to Tortuguero on a Costa Rican itinerary any way you see fit. A stop here works as part of a big loop if you're traveling on to popular areas that aren't particularly close by—uber-famous Arenal Volcano National Park, for example, provides a totally different ecosystem and experience. Another option is sticking to the Caribbean Coast, beginning in the north and ending up at Puerto Viejo, in the south. 

Getting There

Again, access is the most cumbersome part of Tortuguero. You can only reach the park by boat or plane. That said, there's enough tourism infrastructure in place to make your arrival at the park (relatively) straightforward. Really, the journey to arrive there is almost as much of an adventure as actually being in the park.

If you're coming from the capital of San José, our local specialists can arrange either a flight or overland transport, which involves a connecting boat trip. If you do decide on an overland transfer, your journey will take you north for about two hours on the Guapiles Highway, through Braulio Carillo National Park. You'll arrive at the La Pavona dock, near the town of Guápiles, at which point you'll hop on a motorboat for the scenic 90-minute ride into Tortuguero. Note that if you are on a road trip, you will have to leave your rental vehicle at the covered parking structure near the dock (around US$8 per day) for the duration of your stay.

What to See and Do

While most visitors to Tortuguero come to view the mother turtles during nesting season, there are a couple of other activities you don't want to miss during your time here. 

Boat and canoe tours

The best and most efficient way to see most of Tortuguero is to zip around the channels on a lancha (motorboat), canoa (canoe), or cayuco (kayak). In fact, boat travel is the official mode of transport here. Many travelers prefer a canoe or kayak trip, as these are great ways to stay active while marveling at all the incredible ecosystems. These tours typically last around 3-4 hours and are led by multi-lingual guides who can point out all the unique flora and fauna. Some animals you'll likely spot include caimans, river otters, howler monkeys, and rare tropical birds like macaws, toucans, and kingfishers.

Rainforest hikes

There's no better way to experience the flora and fauna of Tortuguero than by embarking on a brisk hike into the surrounding rainforest with a local guide. You'll almost certainly see one or more of the three kinds of monkeys that exist in Tortuguero, including white-faced capuchins, howler monkeys, and spider monkeys. Anteaters, sloths, green macaws, and even bats abound here too.

As for the trails, one popular option is El Gavilan. It's a short two km hike and the trailhead is located just outside the town of Tortuguero. You can also choose to hike up Cerro Tortuguero. This is the highest peak in the area (390 meters, 1,290 feet) and the view from the top is totally worth the hike.

When to Go

If your aim is to arrive during the aforementioned nesting season, then you'll want to plan a trip between July and October (see the table below for the nesting windows of different turtle species). Note that this time period falls within Costa Rica's "green" season, the colloquial term for the nation's rainy season. There will be more precipitation throughout the rest of the country, but it will actually be fairly dry on the Caribbean Coast. Pair that with the turtle nesting season, this is considered the high season for Tortuguero, and prices are actually highest at this time of the year. Here's more information on traveling to Costa Rica during the green season. 

*Note: Unfortunately due to the overall decline of the Leatherback turtle population, it's very rare to see a leatherback in Tortuguero during the nesting or hatching season.

Where to Stay & Eat

If you're arriving at the park, there's really only one place to stay: the village of Tortuguero. This small village (only about 1,500 residents) with a heavy Afro-Caribbean culture is situated on a sandbar island right on the coast, near to the beach. It's the main hub from which to embark on boat and hiking tours into the park, and here you'll find most of the area's lodging and dining options. It's also where the airport is located. 

Much of the lodging in Tortuguero is in eco-lodges and boutique hotels in or near the town of Tortuguero. Each eco-lodge is its own self-contained space, with restaurants, pools, and other amenities.  Since getting around is more complicated (boats only), most lodges are full board and provide the meals and activities for your stay.  The accommodations available here aren't as flashy as it is in other popular areas in Costa Rica like Tamarindo and Manuel Antonio National Park. Although lacking the amenities of four-star resorts, nonetheless make comfy and relaxing places to hang your hat. That said, if luxury and creature comforts are what you're looking for, then there are some high-end eco-lodges. These include Tortuga Lodge and Gardens, a colorful, 29-room luxury lodge with rooms overlooking the Tortuguero River. There is also the larger Mawamba Lodge, located between the lagoon and the Caribbean Sea.  For mid-range/budget accommodation options, try Laguna Lodge Tortuguero, which features 106 rooms, six acres of tropical gardens, and two giant blue-tiled swimming pools.

Most lodges include all the meals for your stay.  However, it can be fun to try some of the restaurants in other lodges for some variety.  A great restaurant to try is Katonga (part of Mawamba Lodge).  This floating restaurant serves International and Caribbean food, but as you enjoy lunch or dinner, the restaurant floats through the lagoon, so you can enjoy the meal while feasting on the amazing scenery with your eyes.  Another great restaurant to try is the Green Turtle restaurant (part of Tortuga Lodge).  Enjoy authentic Costa Rican Caribbean dishes with sweeping views of the Tortuguero River.  For budget options, you'd do well to sample the Afro-Caribbean fare on offer at places like Miss Junies, inside Tortuguero town, a local favorite that does good jerk chicken, red snapper, and coconut fish curry; and those just returning from a hike can fill up on seafood (try the Caribbean shrimp) or veggie curries at Donde Richard. If you're an early bird looking for a good breakfast, go to Dorling Bakery for the cinnamon rolls and banana bread.

Tortuguero Travel Tips

Since nesting season in Tortuguero generally coincides with the rest of the country's green season, you may want to plan your visit during July or early August if you're going anywhere outside of the perpetually sunny Caribbean Coast. During this time, there's typically a "mini dry season" when the sun is out— it's like your own personal high season without the crowds.

Stock up on cash before arriving. There is now a single ATM in Tortuguero (Banco de Costa Rica), but you don't want to take your chances. 

Tortuguero isn't a swimming beach. Strong currents and choppy waters make this section of the coast unhospitable to swimmers. So leave the swimsuit in the luggage and come for the turtle viewing instead.